Secware_Tech6

The masterblaster probably doesnt have a permanent 12v supply. Any dialler will need this but the trigger feed will be at the blaster.

Either above or a dualtech like the optex mx40 or honeywell 7550

Id have to check the docs but that will be about right. It wont be anywhere near 1A You will need to series your tamper returns and HO-ve and not connect the bell trigger on the second unit

Sure whats your order number ill look into it

HI 1. Sales would be best for that. 2. Not to close to distort. Just practice a few times to get the ideal distance and volume for your voice. Id say about 15cm 3. The only way to do this is to walk test each correctly and adjust

You have chnaged the code from default to something else (miskeyed perhaps) A factory default will if done correctly put this back to how it was out of the box

I wouldnt recommend this as id use a galaxy or a HKC for flexability but Use an optima or accenta with the bell time at 1min Connect the active beams (standard beams will require cabling to both sides) and use shunt switches in parralel with the circuit to shunt.

I havnt been able to replicate any login issues since it was upgraded.

Ideally a belden data cable. How long is the run?

Id look at the accenta control panel, honeywell or optex dual tech sensors and a sounder of your preference. The ag6 is a good budget option. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1010 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1676 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1973

However whilst this is possible i would recommend a panel with prox integrated. As shorting the wires in the above procedure could disable the alarm.

Have you ensured the tamper switches are closed?

It is possible but they should be on their own cables If using a 5 connection bell then 1 core is spare and not used. That is correct speakers use 2 wires. The other cores are unused Colour is irrelevant as long as the same connection is used.

If its DIY your after then id go for the YALE. It is not a processional system and is designed to be simple to fit, nothing else. You cant compare the system types im afraid.

The diode bases are for fire panel use not intruder alarm panel use.

What happens when you enter the users or master codes?

The homelink is the older unit so if that is the choice id go for the Ion. But id recommend the HKC or the honeywell units over the scantronic.

The detectors are that, just detectors. You can wire them into anything with suuitable inputs etc. I would advise using a control panel to run the system and wire the beams into that. The panel type id recommend would depend on faetures required. If just basic on off etc the id say a honeywell optima. This will also power your beams. Then wire a relay from the bell output of the panel to trigger the lights. You can then connect a gsm dialler or normal dialler to the bell trigger, or use an accenta to get dedicated trigger outputs.

If its under warranty then we will replace it. Just raise an RMA ticket with the relevant details.

Can you upload a pic of a working unit and the non working unit so i can see the programming switches and the wiring setup please

What is your entry time programmed as?

As its a BT badged visonic unit then the visonic powermax units may work. However this has not been tested nor is it supported.

If you link the terminals and leave the wires TA and connected that will bypass the tamper locally whilst powering the bell to prevent sounding. Also if you link out the global tamper and the keypad tamoer connections that will only leave the control panel tamper switch. However if you have voltage on the tamper circuit (ie cable damage, faulty detector, crimped cable in the pa you moved) then that will also cause a fault. Easiest way to prove the control panel is to remove all external wiring and test with links. Once it passes this you can then add devices one at a time till the fault returns. That will then identify the faulty device / wiring

Yes but the freq of the prox reader isnt the only issue. Some fobs are locked to manufacturers. What system are the cards from?

Im assuming you are only using zone 1, and you have wired into the detection zone and not the tamper zone?