Secware_Tech6

Id look at the accenta control panel, honeywell or optex dual tech sensors and a sounder of your preference. The ag6 is a good budget option. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1010 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1676 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1973

However whilst this is possible i would recommend a panel with prox integrated. As shorting the wires in the above procedure could disable the alarm.

Have you ensured the tamper switches are closed?

It is possible but they should be on their own cables If using a 5 connection bell then 1 core is spare and not used. That is correct speakers use 2 wires. The other cores are unused Colour is irrelevant as long as the same connection is used.

If its DIY your after then id go for the YALE. It is not a processional system and is designed to be simple to fit, nothing else. You cant compare the system types im afraid.

The diode bases are for fire panel use not intruder alarm panel use.

What happens when you enter the users or master codes?

The homelink is the older unit so if that is the choice id go for the Ion. But id recommend the HKC or the honeywell units over the scantronic.

The detectors are that, just detectors. You can wire them into anything with suuitable inputs etc. I would advise using a control panel to run the system and wire the beams into that. The panel type id recommend would depend on faetures required. If just basic on off etc the id say a honeywell optima. This will also power your beams. Then wire a relay from the bell output of the panel to trigger the lights. You can then connect a gsm dialler or normal dialler to the bell trigger, or use an accenta to get dedicated trigger outputs.

If its under warranty then we will replace it. Just raise an RMA ticket with the relevant details.

Can you upload a pic of a working unit and the non working unit so i can see the programming switches and the wiring setup please

What is your entry time programmed as?

As its a BT badged visonic unit then the visonic powermax units may work. However this has not been tested nor is it supported.

If you link the terminals and leave the wires TA and connected that will bypass the tamper locally whilst powering the bell to prevent sounding. Also if you link out the global tamper and the keypad tamoer connections that will only leave the control panel tamper switch. However if you have voltage on the tamper circuit (ie cable damage, faulty detector, crimped cable in the pa you moved) then that will also cause a fault. Easiest way to prove the control panel is to remove all external wiring and test with links. Once it passes this you can then add devices one at a time till the fault returns. That will then identify the faulty device / wiring

Yes but the freq of the prox reader isnt the only issue. Some fobs are locked to manufacturers. What system are the cards from?

Im assuming you are only using zone 1, and you have wired into the detection zone and not the tamper zone?

However note you are limited to 12 circuits / devices in total on the 12.

Any dusk sensor can be inverted with the use of a relay. If the devices are 240v then use a 240v coil relay, if 12v use a 12v one.

Technically the id and id plus systems are interoperable. However in practice this is not always the case. The voltages used by the 2 biscuit variants is slightly different. Many companies that used to use iD have a large stockpile of the old biscuit type to support legacy systems due to this issue.

iD whilst owned by honeywell, they dont actually make a control panel to support them. Texecom, Castle care tech and menvier currently do, however its a dying tech, texecom recently announced they would be pulling support for iD

Is this for access control or asset protection? Im afraid i dont fully understand the question.

If it was operational before then you have either damaged something on the connections or board or not seated the control panel tamper switch correctly.

It depends on your DVR outputs. What is the manufacturer of that model?

There are 2 issues here. Systems such as this are not normally used for recognition capture. If you want to capture regs then lens size or scene width are the most important aspect. You want to be viewing approx a scene width of approx 6m at the point of reg capture. You also need to be facing the reg in question with the camera. Too much offset angle will make it harder.

Usually the old obs kits just sent video over the cores not a twisted pair converted signal. Its not supported but you should be able to open a cable and test for power and video. However bear in mind some kits were actually line fed. I would suggest it be a better idea to replace the cameras with some not locked to that monitor