Secware_Tech6

You do not need the relay on that panel. The relay is for panels that do not support comms

We will need to split the download out from that order and mark it as ready for download. Its not possible to download a file unless it is on its own

ID prove the panel first before deciding its at fault. If you discconect all wiring and put the relevant resistors accross the circuits are they still in fault.

If your planning on using this to activate the alarm i would advise against it. But you could use an optex or takex infrared beam instead on your panel

Does the fuse blow when the battery leads are disconnected from the pcb?

if i recall those connections are marked on the pcb during manufacture. But you wont find the other end having s1 s2 etc as they will only have s.

As above you may have a data issue. Tryu connecting just one keypad on a short temporary length of cable at the control panel

Ill need a little more info. You will need to use an inhibited zone for your hallway sensor if you want it on delay after opening the entry door

Yes you need a non powered sensor such as the aritech units. However you will need an analyser to use such detectors with your panel

The masterblaster probably doesnt have a permanent 12v supply. Any dialler will need this but the trigger feed will be at the blaster.

Either above or a dualtech like the optex mx40 or honeywell 7550

Id have to check the docs but that will be about right. It wont be anywhere near 1A You will need to series your tamper returns and HO-ve and not connect the bell trigger on the second unit

Sure whats your order number ill look into it

HI 1. Sales would be best for that. 2. Not to close to distort. Just practice a few times to get the ideal distance and volume for your voice. Id say about 15cm 3. The only way to do this is to walk test each correctly and adjust

You have chnaged the code from default to something else (miskeyed perhaps) A factory default will if done correctly put this back to how it was out of the box

I wouldnt recommend this as id use a galaxy or a HKC for flexability but Use an optima or accenta with the bell time at 1min Connect the active beams (standard beams will require cabling to both sides) and use shunt switches in parralel with the circuit to shunt.

I havnt been able to replicate any login issues since it was upgraded.

Ideally a belden data cable. How long is the run?

Id look at the accenta control panel, honeywell or optex dual tech sensors and a sounder of your preference. The ag6 is a good budget option. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1010 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1676 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1973

However whilst this is possible i would recommend a panel with prox integrated. As shorting the wires in the above procedure could disable the alarm.

Have you ensured the tamper switches are closed?

It is possible but they should be on their own cables If using a 5 connection bell then 1 core is spare and not used. That is correct speakers use 2 wires. The other cores are unused Colour is irrelevant as long as the same connection is used.

If its DIY your after then id go for the YALE. It is not a processional system and is designed to be simple to fit, nothing else. You cant compare the system types im afraid.

The diode bases are for fire panel use not intruder alarm panel use.

What happens when you enter the users or master codes?