You have chnaged the code from default to something else (miskeyed perhaps)
A factory default will if done correctly put this back to how it was out of the box
I wouldnt recommend this as id use a galaxy or a HKC for flexability but
Use an optima or accenta with the bell time at 1min
Connect the active beams (standard beams will require cabling to both sides) and use shunt switches in parralel with the circuit to shunt.
Id look at the accenta control panel, honeywell or optex dual tech sensors and a sounder of your preference. The ag6 is a good budget option.
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It is possible but they should be on their own cables
If using a 5 connection bell then 1 core is spare and not used.
That is correct speakers use 2 wires. The other cores are unused
Colour is irrelevant as long as the same connection is used.
If its DIY your after then id go for the YALE. It is not a processional system and is designed to be simple to fit, nothing else.
You cant compare the system types im afraid.
The detectors are that, just detectors. You can wire them into anything with suuitable inputs etc.
I would advise using a control panel to run the system and wire the beams into that. The panel type id recommend would depend on faetures required.
If just basic on off etc the id say a honeywell optima. This will also power your beams.
Then wire a relay from the bell output of the panel to trigger the lights. You can then connect a gsm dialler or normal dialler to the bell trigger, or use an accenta to get dedicated trigger outputs.
If you link the terminals and leave the wires TA and connected that will bypass the tamper locally whilst powering the bell to prevent sounding. Also if you link out the global tamper and the keypad tamoer connections that will only leave the control panel tamper switch.
However if you have voltage on the tamper circuit (ie cable damage, faulty detector, crimped cable in the pa you moved) then that will also cause a fault.
Easiest way to prove the control panel is to remove all external wiring and test with links. Once it passes this you can then add devices one at a time till the fault returns. That will then identify the faulty device / wiring
Technically the id and id plus systems are interoperable. However in practice this is not always the case. The voltages used by the 2 biscuit variants is slightly different. Many companies that used to use iD have a large stockpile of the old biscuit type to support legacy systems due to this issue.
iD whilst owned by honeywell, they dont actually make a control panel to support them.
Texecom, Castle care tech and menvier currently do, however its a dying tech, texecom recently announced they would be pulling support for iD