Secware_Tech6

right The gen 4 doesnt zone split like say a eurosec cpx, but i think what your thinking of is using a taching relay to provide indication of which device activated. I wouldnt do this myself ideally you want to have 1 device per zone. However There is no reason to provide 2 latching led's, you only really need 1. For example if you have 2 x PIR's. If PIR 1 activated it would have the latch led and the zone led illuminated. If however PIR 2 activated the the latch led would not be on, so you could tell them apart. All you need is a lacthing relay, a reset method (to unlatch the relay) and an led. James Support

Is it the early one with the basic keypad. The later versions were programmed from the keypad?

Kath I dont think it is faulty and tech departments tend to say its faulty far too quickly IMO I dont feel its faulty yet anyway What have you programmed output 1 on the panel as?

Im not convinced yet the panel is faulty as it does sound like a programming issue. Can you try something else for me. Wire the door contact into zone 1 and program that as delay. I assume your not getting a tamper alarm on entry? Support

Jeff The later of the old model led keypad, should work, but only if it was a late 3g keypad. re split zones? im not sure i understand the question. do you mean wire 2 things into the zone and have it notify seperatly like say a eurosex cpx? or something else. James Support

Byte I know a bit about ZM but cant help out with that too much. However camera wise i would really recommend any axis camera. IMO there is nothing close to the re image quality. However id consider your requirement for PTZ. As a rule i would only recommend them for manned systems, ie how are you going to ensure your camera is in the correct position when an event occurs? I would recommend wider static views, using megapixel cameras. ZM can do this already. (will need the shared mem to be tweaked) But discrete and good image quailty dont usually go together. Hopefully tahts enough info to start with. James

what have you programmed output 1 as?

its quite normal to use the bell connection ie the bell - as the trigger. Can you tell me how you have wired the rest of the dialler ie what to what? James

Anytime Graham. Glad to help.

can you try setting to 30 for me. I can only assume its actually on 0. Also you are full setting this when testing, not part setting?

What is your entry time set to?

Danny You are using entry exit and not inhibited entry? Do you have a PIR in the hallway (ie after the door) that would trigger on the way to the keypad? If so how is that circuit programmed. James

I cant understand that then. Out of interest what is on zone 1, and how are the other circuits programmed.

I am creating this sticky due to some of the responses made on the support forum. When using paypal for payment method we can only accept paypal accounts that are verified and confirmed (UK orders) This is the same as checking the address on a credit card, but these 2 systems (ie verfied and confirmed) are the only way that paypal allow us to check. We cannot stop the system automatically processing unverfied paypal accounts, and if using paypal for a first order, and having an unverfied paypal account, your order will be stalled. You can then either verify your account with paypal, they will inform us once this is complete, or we can cancel and refund the order. In various places throughout the order process this will be displayed, but we do have some customers who continue the order with an unverified account. Unverified accounts are the accounts used for fraudulent orders as the cardholder cannot be verified, this is why we stall any order so we can confirm the account holder was actually the person creating the order. For example if anyone had someones credit card details they could process and order using it. This would obviously be an unverfied account as the card holder would not be aware of the transaction. As we are a security company we take fraud very seriously and will not process such an order until the card holder is contacted. While some companies do not use these checks, we do for our own and our customers protection. If you are unsure if your paypal account is unverfied then please check with paypal before ordering, or use an alternative payment method. We are sorry for any inconvience this causes, but we will always protect our customers accounts as much as possible from fraud. James Support http://monitored-alarms.nsi-gold-approved.co.uk

Danny. That is correct, ie pogramming it as entry/exit. WHen it activates what zone does it report as activating, and what zone is the soor wired into?

GPH That is an optima compact. Id say its a G3 model. The SL compact was a rebadge, but that is definetly an optima. Again that size enclosure will only accept a 2.1-2.3 A/h even though the pcb and transformer are caperble of more. James

Basically the same system, optima has onboard keypad, accenta does not. Gen 4 optima / accenta are very similar. If you can find out the bell brand and model, i may know it. James

As above we only stock the UK varients. Its not a programming option to chnage the language it needs the panel reflashing to the correct firmware. A UK varient will work in any country but will obviously use UK text and speech. As a side note I personnly couldnt support a non english unit as i wouldnt understand the logs etc James

Danny Can you tell me what panel this is on etc. or let me know your order number and i can look it up.

The current bell should be fine, however some older bells (ie solonoid based) will damage newer system. However id assume as you had an optima before that it is a modern type sounder and as such should be fine. No the unit does not come with a battery, and only a 2.1-2.3 A/h will phsically fit inside the control panel. It wires the same as the old optima, its a double pole based system so will wire identically. Support

I cant comment on the pricing, but you are correct we do have a price promise and if you can find it cheaper anywhere else we will beat it. A lot of the manufacturers have had price increases though and i wouldnt be suprised if scantronic has also. I beleive its to do with the weak

I would suggest you have shorted out the 12v supply. this will either have blown the 12v fuse or the psu. First of all check all fuses with a multimeter. do not just replace the fuse you need to check the wiring etc and remove the fault. if the fuises pass check, then meter the 12v supply. if this has 0v then im afraid the psu has failed.

we can help with programming etc, however it is assumed that you have basic installation and fault finding skills. its impossible for us to offer support on the basics, due to the lack of understanding. also pro gear is not designed to survive incorrect termination. We cannot cover damage like this under warranty. the outputs on the panel as 12v you will need either a 12v contactor or an intermediate relay. Support

it totally depends on the load and length. I would normally use .75mm or 1.0mm flex. Support

Each device should have its own spur for isolation etc. Support