Intruder Alarms

I Have A2Z detectors on alarm system and I would like to fit a CO2 detector also to alarm system I know A2Z no longer exist is there anything simular available you can use instead

have purchased the Honeywell model from you DT7450 and have just come to start fitting it. However looking at the instructions it states don't fit facing direct sunlight or facing windows yet its a "dual tech" that you recommended for a conservatory. I now that me previous conservatory had a similar model but as it was approaching ten years old and the size of a house brick, I thought I would replace it. Is this Honeywell model suitable?

Can 1 dialler be used between 2 alarm systems that are within 100m of each other?

I'm wanting to buy a Bosch ISM-BLD1-P burglar alarm sensor, to replace a non-pet friendly sensor that is currently installed- it is a pain to keep pets out of that particular room. (The rest of the house is covered by existing ISM-BLD1-P's). The webpage mentions that there are different microwave frequencies that the detector can operate at, with each different frequency variant having a different letter at the end of the product code (F1, F3 or F4). Are you able to advise which frequency I am likely to require- are these different units? I can't find any mention of microwave frequency in any of the documentation for my current system.

I live in UK , but have a holiday home in Spain ,and need an intruder alarm ( that doesnt need a landline ) to notify me of a trigger to my mobile phone .I dont really have any permanently resident and reliable close neighbours to act as a keyholder or lookout . A sound bell/siren would not be of help or long term deterant . Need ideas of a suitable system , and outline costs .

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The wiring diagram suggests that for multiple keypads, the wiring should be serial i.e. from alarm panel into the first keypad then onto the second. My question is can I wire each keypad back to the alarm panel independantly (in start wiring), e.g. the comms connection at the alarm panel has two wires comming from it, one to the first keypad and one to the second keypad.

I understand that conventional unmonitored alarm system has 3 major components - keypad (to arm/disarm etc),control panel (which monitors sensors and sets an alarm when armed), dialer (if you want to call outside). I understand 'proper' system will have keypad separated from control panel and the control panel should be in a metal box in less accessible and visible place. so it should take sometime for an intruder to find it and smash it. however the question - what do you do with dialers? there are not a lot of places where the land line socket can be placed in the property hence intruder simply need to go quickly around (dialing a number and playing message shou…

I saw a website similar to ebay recently. One local guy is selling GSM jammers for a tenner or so. He had 10K feedbacks by the time I found it. I guess 9999 of them was bought by thieves. Hence I understand GSM alarms are placebo for the owners... My question however - the wireless alarm sensors work on frequencies close to GSM 300-900MHz right? So it should be fairly simple to mask sensors with a jammer. As long as the jammed sensors cannot send alarm signal to the control panel - the whole system is pecked... is this the right picture? (I mean the more expensive alarms must have somewhat a poll interval alarm but I guess that should be around 2+ minutes - in…

I think before - the best way to protect a window was to have a foil running around the glass.. Now I see a lot of electronic gadgets. However I am not sure how reliable they are. Say vibration sensor. I guess it is easy to cut glass above/below such a sensor with diamond cutter and simply disconnect it with a knife or undo latches and open window slowly or get through not disturbing the sensor using the hole... I mean - if the intruder is an idiot and will smash the window with a brick it works but otherwise - unlikely... am I right? is there other means to protect glass area? If the window is obscure and design and beauty considerations arent important - is …

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I am considering replacing my current alarm system, it has been installed for 20 years and it doesn't suit our needs anymore. I am looking for a recomendation for a system with the following requirements: Blank Control Panel 2 x Remote Keypads 5 x PIR sensors 2 X Door Contacts 1 x Smoke Detector 1 x external bell box I intend to replace batteries and cabling

Hi, Need an alarm system asap as I've just had an attempted break in and it's given me the kick up the backside I needed. Complete novice at alarms but a competent diyer.Please recommend me an alarm system for a 3 bed semi, conservatory upvc patio doors to the rear, upvc side kitchen door and upvc front door plus 2 downstairs windows need protecting I think i will need 4 pirs for the down stairs rooms Kitchen, hallway,dinnig room and lounge and 3 surface mount door contacts. I would like to have a panel upstairs so the alarm can be armed at night. I think I will need an extra bell box for the rear of the property please advise. Please recommend wired or wireless whic…

I currently have a FreeWave alarm for my detached garage and shed. Working fine but I want to use more wired sensors than the 4 that this allows. Could you advise on an alternative panel? I need 8 wired zones, no wireless, as its for a garage I must be able to arm/disarm remotley with a keyfob from the car and I need the monitoring terminals.

I would be grateful if you could help me. My system has a Flashguard Exterior Sounder Unit 1164 with Xenon Flashing light and electronic sounder connected to a Franzen 3000, installed in 1987. I have bought an Optima Compact Gen4 Intruder Panel, and have got the strobe working but not the sounder. 'Old' connections were as follows:- Flashguard Franzen Connector Function connected to Connector A -ve Hold Off Charge - B -ve Switched Sounder Output S- C Tamper not connected D +ve Hold Off Charge + E not connected F -ve Tamper Return R- Could you please advise me how to connect the Flashguard to the Optima Compact Gen4? Thank you very much

Just installed the Accenta G4 panel and all worked well. a few days later a fault occured to the entry/exit. Problem is break to the pair of contact wire. Replace with the spare and makes and break but the problem is the panel does not register open/close of the contact but ok with the multimeter. Another factor that I can assume is new carpet was fitted and wonder if the fitter damaged the cable which I think would be most likely as it was all working fine before the carpet was fitted. No short between contact wire and tamper wire. Any help would be grateful. I will run a temp cable this weekend and see what happens.

Looking to buy a veritas excel and want advice about PIRs ie Mirage or Prestige range.

I think I have damaged the PCB. It shorted as I was removing a connection when still live. I've replaced the blown fuse but, on rewiring, it alarms as soon as the system is set. I'm confident the wiring is correct & unit programming OK (I did a factory reset). There is no fault with the PIRs. Any suggestions on how to remedy?

Hi I would be interested in buying Visonic alarm system. However I am not clear on the PowerLink functionality. Do I have to have Visonic IPMP server installed separately to support PowerLink for exactly this: sending emails/MMS messages with pictures from connected cameras UPON alarm trigger.

Hello can anyone help,on entering the building after the alarm has been set there is no exit entry timers sounding ,and the externel bell box triggers,zone 2 which is in the path to the rkp is set as access.

Cannot get the Panel to do what the manual says it should on Power Up and Walk Test. I only have the Entry/Exit door switch wired to the panel to ensure easy diagnosis.

According to installation instructions for AG6 sounder PCB should be marked as follows TR- V- ST- V+ S- The actual PCB is marked ST- R- SW- V+ V- Can you confirm R- is actually TR- and SW- is actually S-

It keeps sounding at random times, with no tamper fault and no error message on the control panel. The problem seems to lie with the sounder only.

My system requires at least 10 wired inputs and up to 8 wireless. What would you recommend in this case. I also want a system which can phone/message me if there is an alarm and can be remotely operated.

Hi, have wired up system as should be, have all cct returns, bell tamper, PA and global tamper returns as should be. But on powering up all the RKP is showing is software version 4.00. Have depowered and shorted out NVM & kick start pins and tried again but just stays the same.