Intruder Alarms

I am only using 6 zones & no PA. I have programmed zones 1-6 as used and 7 & 8 as unused. When I try the Walk Test as soon as I input '0' for the test, zones 7&8 LEDs light up and an intermittent tone sounds. Any ideas??

On the display screen two lines of Pixels have failed making it difficult to read what is on the lower part of the screen, I have re-booted the unit but there is no change. Do you have any further suggestions for rectifying the fault?

I have a system that is activating as soon as the full system set is applied and timed to set. It sets ok in part, however there are no open zones to activated the system. Tamper circuit is also fine. Any help is appericated.

Please can somebody tell me if the Honeywell SEF8M will work with a Flex 20 panel and RF Portal (A073-00-01) Thank you

i ordered a Texecom alarm R8+ in 2010. I setup the alarm last year. i got some PIR petwise frmo texecom. Well, i have false alarm during the night 1x / each month in the room where there is a sofa. I have 4 cats. I guess, they jump from the sofa. Do you know a trick to decrease the sensitivity ? or there is another solution / PIR to avoid those alarms to buy ?

I have a cooper security 9651 panel. I'm rewiring the panel from global tamper to FSL because i've been told its more secure. I've wired single PIR zones with no trouble but when there is more than one PIR or surface contact or Panic button it shows tamper in walk test. If I one device is open at once in a zone, its fine but if I open two or more devices in one zone, the panel detects tamper. (E.g. When I open one door in Zone 7, the panel doesn't say tamper but when I open a door and a window in Zone 7 the panel will detect tamper) Can someone help me with this problem? Thanks Krishan

Good morning to all! I just purchased a Visonic 33 kit from SecWare, and I am experiencing trouble with regards to the communication between the panel and KP 250 keypad. I already opened a ticket with Support and awaiting instructions. Quite often the keypad stops responding whilst a "communicating..." message is displayed. In that case I need to remove the batteries from the keypad to get it working again.. Sometimes communication between keypad and panel is lost completely (a message "no communication" is displayed). The keypad and the panel are in close proximity and I tried relocating both units to no effect. Also,enrolling devices is a hit and miss situatio…

I was thinking about additional shock or contact protection for UPVC french doors in the kitchen at the back of the house. I'll have a PIR covering the kitchen area already, it's only a small one, but was thinking about something like the Viper GLX contacted sensor. I know that obviously shock sensors work better/best on a wooden framed doors/windows and obviously UPVC frames are affected by heat expansion etc. What are you thoughts on it, would you recommend it? Or just stick with contacts instead. Thanks in advance.

Can you please tell how to pair these two devices together.

I need to replace an ADE id plus system but without replacing the cabling, do you offer a new system which will work with the id plus cabling?

I have Scantronic 762 dual channel receiver that currently works with two 738r shock sensors. I wish to swap out one of these sensors for a PIR unit but a) do not know if one channel would be enough for a PIR , and which PIR to buy. (I am told that that I need a Scantronic 700r series item.) Can you please advise.

Hi I have just installed a new Accenta G4 Compact with LCD keypad. I am quite confident that all is wired correctly. I note the Engineer's manual tells you to connect all the zones, tamper, pa circuits and then speakers. First question - the manual tells you to make sure that the factory fitted links are connected to the PA, TAMP and T-A. Surely this would mean that these functions would not work if these links were left in as they would be permanently shorted? I have checked all these circuits and they are closed (short) and therefore I assume I may disregard this. Second question - On page 14 the manual instructs you to connect the mains and it says t…

My question is why does the battery fuse blow every time I connect the battery? The battery is being connected the right way round. I disconnect the battery, change the fuse and reconnect the battery - the fuse blows. I've been doing this with the mains power on, so not to activate the siren. Is the battery or control panel faulty, or do I need to completely power down before changing the fuse (I can't see how this would change anything)?

I am considering buying some honeywell equipment to upgrade my alarm to wireless. Firstly I just wanted to check that all the components are fully compatible with the Galaxy G2 panel (I have the G2-20, or actually the G2-12 as it is not expanded), and that it will support this many sensors. Do you know this for sure, or should I contact Honeywell directly Honeywell Wireless Door/window compact magnetic contact Honeywell Wireless Dualtec 15m x 18m Honeywell Wireless Smoke sensor with built-in sounder DF8M Honeywell Carbon Monoxide Wireless Detector Honeywell Galaxy 2 Series Wireless Receiver (RF Portal) Microtech Galaxy MK8 Keyprox LCD Keypad Honeywel…

Hi, I am going to upgrade my Galaxy G2-12 wired system to a wireless system. The list of components I think I need to purchase are in another thread where I was asking about compatibility :- http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/forums/topic/4414-ticket-question-wireless-peripherals-with-g2-12/ and are reposted here :- - Honeywell C079-2 RF Portal - Honeywell CP051-00-01 MK8 keyprox - Honeywell C072 Boxed RIO expander - 3x Honeywell TCC8M wireless keyfob - Honeywell SMB10 Motion sensor mounts - RS485 Bus wire : Twisted pair screen cable Belden 8723 equivalent - 680 Ohm resistors - 4x Honeywell DO8M - Door - 5x Honeywell IRPI8M - IR…

Please could you advice on the best Honeywell Home Wireless Alarm System which will allow notifications of activations to be sent to mobile phones and allow interaction by mobile phone I was looking at a price range around &300 to £500 is there any systems in or around my budget?

I would like to order 10x Optex VX402REC outdoor sensors. Please could you help put together a basic alarm systems as follows: 10x Optex VX402REC sensors Outdoor Sounder Indoor Sounder Key pad to disarm Please could you price for a reliable system and also could you provide a wired option as well as a wireless option?

I am using the 660 in conjunction with a scantronic 500r. The panel is 12v removed for alarm and the 660 is the opposite. The instalation guide refers to a dip switch to change the polarity. I cannot identify this on the board. Any ideas .

I am looking to install security system on a car garage (yard). I want to install sensors, so if any intruders walk in, message is played and our phones are called. Can you help, or guide me to the right direction. I have seen Optex VX-402REC on your website which are exactly what i require, however want to be sure on outputs and auto dialer etc.

I've bought a Visonic keypad KP-160 PG2. According to the manual, it should be possible to use an optional power source (5-12V DC) instead of batteries. Where can I buy such a power supply? Thanks

Hey there alarm been working fine an come home to the keypad display as follows Accenta G4 RKP F131-01-111 No lights on lcd keypad and no response from keypad been working fine for a year can send pics if it helps

Hi, re the above system, can this be operated by remote control or can I somehow link it to a remote garage door opener? Alternatively, is there a system that can do this?

Can the Galaxy Flex 20 alert me directly via PSTN or the optional GSM board, or can it only signal to an ARC?

Need to replace Optex Wonderex FX35 PIR Please advise a replacement

i may need to put in a dialler later if the customer wants it. Which version will accept an internal card? The spec sheet implies that the compact will not but the other two versions will?