Secware_Tech6

Private If the system is overloaded you will need a powersupply so that you can split some of the load. However i would advise taking a reading of the current demand as you are using worse case figures. Id suggest your final demand will be lower. You will need to program the pir as you say, and also leave the entry door as delayed. To be safe yes, but this is disabled when selecting eol mode In theory Yes, Id have to check the docs but my only concern would be the rated current of the output. If you have checked this then you are correct. Depends. If you take your day mode(disamed) current you can calculate the standby time. If you let me know your day reading i will calculate it for you. Not needed, you can have both zones as entry on part set All the best James

ill comment on the r8 if you need me to back to original question The homelink55 will only work with WIRED keypads, so yes you need an ION for this Yes, but only marginal assuming the cupboard is not foil lined etc

Steve Any of these will be fine http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_40 but id use the Menvier M12 as its programmable as a fixed heat, rate of rise heat, optical smoke or a combination of all 3. James

AG6 is on the list after the is215 pur range. Ill try to get one published over the next fortnight. James

Daniel I think the key to this is to do it in stages. Are you happy that the rest of the system is functions as you would like while c2 is looped out? If so i recommend we reprogram c2 as i believe you have this programmed as a fire zone or something similar. Once we have that confirmed we canb have a look at the programming sequence. James

It does sound like a wiring or programming issue to me. one thing to try is to loop out zone 2 and see if thatg stops the problem. If it does then its a programming issue. James

Video Review of the Honeywell Optima Compact Gen 4. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Optima compact gen4 review pt3

As its an r8 it has to be double pole and on that panel the only tamper circuit is the tamper circuit. If zone 2 is showing then zone 2 is activating. it might be an ide to disable the tamper during testing. James

IT sounds to me like your kitchen sensor alarm circuit has been wired into the tamper circuit. Also what zone type is zone 2 programmed as?

Daniel The cameras are auto day nights. SO they are colour when there is enough light available, and when there isnt they switch to black and white and turn on the ir illumination. SUpport

Amber Electrics I have emailed you a new zip file with a lower compression rate. James

NOt with 30m range no. Things that spring to mind are pet tolerant risco external detector or a heavily masked opal / voltek pir. Mounting height would be critical though.

I dont know of a reflective unit that can do more than 11m Can you get power of any sort at the other side, or could you use a passive based system? James

i think there might be slight confusion here. Elaine is right in that the texecom PANEL latest s/w revision is 1.8 but the latest wintex is version 5.4

Steve. There are a few external sensors that i think will fit your req, and i use these on my own HA system at home. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=441 these have clean relays i have attached the user manual elite.pdf

Most fire panels work at 24v DC. The SD1 is designed for intruder panels and is a 12v unit. Some panels do indeed have a 12v output, but not all. I would have to check the docs for this one. It is usual to signal a fire signal via something with a proven path, ie not a speech dialler. It is done though. Support

the 9651 has 4 set modes, A B C and D You can program your circuits and part set routines etc as one of these groups. You can then select a sounder option for each group so for example if you used A as All and B as bed you could program A as full sounders, and B as internal sounders only. SUpport

the pot will only adjust the entry exit tones. TO confirm do you have a single 16 Ohm speaker or something else? The easiest way to quieten it a bit is to add a series resistor. This will however make all tones quieter. Another option is to use a 32 Ohm speaker etc rather than a 16 Ohm. a 32Ohm is usually a smaller unit and as such quite a lot quieter. Tech Support

Glad its sorted. James

A door contact does not need power, so you shouldnt have anything connected to the aux. Id suggest you disconnect the tamper to confirm it isnt that. Do you have a picture of both ends showing how its wired. James

nick There isnt an idiots kit as you put it, but it is entirly possible. Id start with a gjd or voltek lighting system and add the detectors required. Alternativly you cold start with a normal intruder alarm control panel and add the required detectors. Suport

earlee Im sorry we cant detail how to wipe a panel on a public forum. I can only really suggest you find a local installer to do this for you. Support

Dave Im sorry about that we would of just repackaged the warranty repair unit from panasonic. However hopefully the attached will be of use. BLC10-setup.zip

I dont understand the question The silver connections should be connected to the zone. As the manual shows. How do you have it wired?

Assuming its a std door contact with 2 silver screws and 3 brass Then the 2 silver connections should be connected directly to the zone. And the tamper circuit is created by twisting the wires together and connecting to a brass screw.