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If you tell us what type/brand of alarm you have fitted , we can tell you how to connect the 2 together.

You have to give the program an exit mode ie. timed , silent etc....its a common mistake have a read of page 40..its all there.

I don't have an instal sheet to hand , but other shocks have a comfort mode , where the led flashes as a visual deterent ( selectable by links).Shocks are good on metal frames but quite poor on upvc , so you may require a second unit if you have no secondary detection eg. a pir.

The Simple Set unit connects exactly as a second keypad would , and no extra programming is necessary.The programming is only required when integrating into a different manufacturers panel using a zone as keyswitch.

Yes it does. just 1 to indicate power and tamper switch is closed , the AG8 also has diagnostic leds...personally I would get a Texecom Odessey.

Hi , you should have a link between the PA , TAMP , TA (scb connections) and the RKP tamper.Power-up the panel , enter user code , alarm will silence , close the lid and press RESET , all leds should go out except DAY and POWER .Maybe you are confusing the leds with the lid being open.

A Texecom Veritas would be roughly the same physical size , save you redecorating , or if the panel is hidden away under the stairs or in a cupboard , why not consider having a system with a remote keypad , giving the option of placing the keypad in a better location. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_102_41&products_id=202 If you are going to decorate in the near future , then consider the Optima , as it is slightly smaller than the Omni 7000.Don't forget to get a new battery when ordering. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_102_41&products_id=866

Texecom Excel panel , Texecom or Honeywell Quad pirs , Texecom Odessey1 bells (one set as SAB one as SCB). http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_37&products_id=929 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_37&products_id=1572 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_102_41&products_id=340 The Texecom gear comes with very good manuals , just my personal choice.

The Scantronic WAM (wireless accessory module) plus a matching detector would do it...just a bit pricey tho...you sure you cant run a cable down the side of the flower bed?

Make a note of how the existing pir is wired ( or take a picture) there will be a colour code used by the installer eg. RED / BLACK for power , YELLOW BLUE for alarm etc. just copy those over to the new detector , careful you do not touch any wires together as you may blow a fuse in the panel.Refere to the instructions that came with the new pir , your dip switched should be set to CC (closed circuit) or similar.

Have a look at the Scantronic I-on16 still needs a wired bell though.

Most alarm accessories are interchangable , and your choice of panel and bell will work with your existing setup.I personally would use a Texecom panel and bell , the instructions are very easy to follow.

enter user code 4321 , press PROG , press 6, 0 , enter new code , PROG , RESET. If this doesn't work , then you will have to default the panel back to factory defaults and start again.

The last G4 I bought had no internal speaker , so you would need an extension speaker , that way you can have the alarm / chime sounds louder and in the best location.The sounder in the keypad is not very loud , only sufficient for setting / unsetting.Pressing 2 keys on the keypad ( 3 + 9 iifc) activates the panic alarm.

Yes

Use the wiring chart for the Optima XL4. Make sure all tamper circuits are closed before trying to reset the panel , there are tampers for RKP , bell , global , panel lid

Yes , most wired devices are intended to be interchangable.

1: Yes . just activate the battery when you have finished the install. 2: the power connections go into the aux power terminals , I usually limit these to 4 , any more and use connector blocks. 3: On the veritas , you can program the zones to off , or not used (zone dissable suite pg.36), but I still place a link in them.

Most domestic alarm systems use 12v batteries for operation during mains fail , these usually keep the system functioning for approx 8 hours depending on battery size.Some systems will not set with a mains failed.If you have no mains supply , look for a system that is designed for battery only operation.Try typing "void property alarm " into google ,that will give you a better idea.

Hi , the unit you mension would require a separate pir input (1804, 1811 or 1816 PIR sensors ), this would trigger the lights attached to it , you can have as many or as few light fittings as you like as long as you observe the load limits. Note , the lights that you are switching are not combined security lights .

You will require the engineers manual ( search the web , its readily available), it shows you how to default the panel to its " factory state" , resetting the codes to default , and also how to reprogram it to your requirements.

If its just a sounder you require , to go off in alarm conditions , then look at the soundbomb 2 or 4.These connect to D ( + ) and b (sw-ve) at the panel.However if you want louder exit and entry tones as well as chimes and alarm tones , then you need an extension speaker which will connect across the SPKR terminals. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_45&products_id=1182 http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_45&products_id=662

The ATI is indeed an old system and the wireless detectors will not be compatible with any other manufacturers equipment.Why not have a look at the Scantronic ion 16 , with wired keypad and bellbox , they have a range of wireless detectors.

First I would disconnect all wiring from the panel , connect the links , then power-up with just mains.If it powers up , you know your mains is connected , if the same fault appears , then wire the keypad direct to the panel with a short piece of cable , if it works now , then your keypad wiring is suspect.

Yes its a straight forward job.Just ensure the wires carrying the power (12vDC) don't touch as you could blow a fuse (only connect up when panel is completely dead - battery and mains).Use your code to silence , if that doesnt work try 4321.