FastCar

You can use the GJD opal and drive a sounder directly ( upto 50mA) this will give audio warning day or night , no need for lights or controller ( although you will need a 12v supply).There is usually a diagram in the packaging.

Do you have a multimeter? if so , check the output of the transformer terminals marked "AC" at the far right of the circuit board, it should read about 18 v AC.If there is no voltage coming out , check that it is going in , at the mains terminals , don't forget there is a 125mA fuse incorporated in the terminal block.And don't forget..be careful around hazardous voltages.Post back with results.

I would remove all wiring from the panel , place a link between the global tamper connections (TAMP) , the T and A connections , and if used the RKP tamper.Check all fuses with a tester , as it is possible that if you have wired the tampers wrong , you may have shorted the AUX supply also.Power the panel up , close the lid , and hopefully all will be well.

Have a look at zone type 08 , technical alarm , it doesnt trigger the alarm when set , and gives a pulsed warning when unset , also gives a warning at the RKP when unsetting if triggered.

Swop the resistors over , see if the fault moves , if so , the resistor is out of range.

Have a look at the Scantronic I-on 16 , or its big brother , the Ion 40

Your panel will not set with a tamper fault.You need to find out which tamper circuit is at fault , global tamper , bell tamper or case tamper.If you place a link across A/T then close the panel and reset , if the fault clears , then you have a fault on that circuit.Try the same on the bell tamper ( link between 0V and TR at the bell terminals).

If you have a fault on all eight zones , then you probably have set the wiring config to eol and then wired it CC or similar.

Have you removed all cables from the zone 6 terminals?.If not , remove them , then place a 10K across the terms and try again.Make sure your programming is correct , any doubts , default and start again.

If you have a tamper fault , then this must be cleared before the system will work.If you go to the Texecom website , you will be able to download a user manual there.(note there are 2 variants , pre and post 1999).The tamper circuits go to the bell , around all the detectors , and the lid of the panel , so think if you have any workmen in who could have damaged any cable/detectors, done any decorating.

Its just a routine that can be invoked by an control panel , but is done automatically by some Texecom panels...wouldn't like to post it here as it is considered an engineer function , but email / or PM me and I can enlighten you.

The strobe tube sits dead centre of the backpanel, hence the reason it has poorer visibility .The comfort leds are "loose" so , depending on which way up you have it , you can place the leds to suit.All Texecom bells feature an "engineers mode" which will enable you to decommission the bell when not needed. There are many led torches and gadgets with high visibility leds..you could add your own custom design.

If I can put my twopenneth..the Ody 4 is a nicer looking box and not as common as the others , but the strobe is not as noticeable as say the 1E/3E , so if you want a bright strobe , go for the 1E or 3E as the 4E is poor in daylight.Also , cheap webprices aren't everything , I ordered some bits from a cheap site recently..all bits arrived apart from the panel..it took 2 weeks for it to arrive.

Have another read at page 34 of the installer guide, you need to set up the program with an exit mode ( default setting is OFF for prog 2+3) , set it to timed or silent timed to suit.You are not the only person to have missed this.

Cold temperature can have the effect of making the pir seem more sensitive , as it looks for the difference between the background and an object emitting IR energy.But the object must be moving.If you have 2 or more pirs , I would swap their locations and see if the FA moves with it, this would point to the pir being faulty.If not , then slightly change the field of view , point away from heat sources ( radiator) , or lock the cats out of that particular room for a few nights. My moneys on the cats.

You have 10 detectors , so the 9651 or Accenta are out of the equation.I would suggest you look at the Texecom Premier with an 8 zone expander , or a Galaxy 2-20 (12 zones onboard).If money is tight go for the ESP detectors , but I would aim a little higher (Tex Prestige or Optex).

I think ,as Tech6 says , is that you may have eol wiring , ie. in each PIR there will be a resistor across the alarm contacts / tamper switch.So your panel will see a set of differing resistances instead of the open / close circuit that it is expecting.You need to verify this first , then post back for help.