Secware_Tech6

Enter the manager code then enter, scroll through the events and press enter. That should put you into manager menu. Then select timed set and press enter. Arm the system in the usual way, but do complete the set.

You will need active cards for that range. What's the application?

Have you acknowledged the warning in the relevant group with a manager code?

The best way to test smoke detectors is with a solo test kit. No Climb Solo 823 Smoke & Cordless Heat Detector Test Set 9.3 m [SOLO823-101] You can just use Smoke Sabre Smoke Detector Tester SS-01 - Security Warehouse but be careful of the amount used as all testing sprays will clog the detection chamber if overused

No. The old castle rf stuff was innovonic based though

Hi veena I'm afraid I'm not allowed to discuss how to effectively disable an alarm system. You can imagine it would be useful info to burglars etc

Voltek stuff is pretty solid especially the switchers

Thanks for the follow up

As Stu really doubt there is a wiring issue, get your installer to test and reuse it. Always use a wire if you can.

I'd be cautious of those units as they don't seem to be meet 50131 They maybe OK I don't see a dt will help a movement sensor isn't intelligent enough to determine object size ie pet vs human crawling etc.

I'm not a fan of pet sensors anyway but I'm afraid I don't know of a ceiling detector. You can of course use a standard sensor with ceiling bracket. The best way in any system with pets is peremiter protection not space protection

Agreed I doubt both sensors are faulty

Also when powering off will also reset the sensors

I would suggest it's a sensor if adjusting the lux brings it back. Have you tried another lux input from another sensor?

I'd check the wiring between the panel and the sab. The links should be removed when wiring in. This is done to prove the panel is functioning on first power up.

Yeah sure. Im just hoping to prove if its the sensor or the switcher. Disconnecting the L wire should make it come on all the time regardless of pot position so that will prove if its a switcher or sensor issue TS

yes both L connections. I think it just uses z1 L for both but ill check once we have proved that.

1812 is the switcher.

it could be the switcher then. If you disconnect the L wire on both zones and it functions then its the pir. If it doesnt then its the switcher. How old are the PIRs?

They only thing to do next is to disconnect the L. On the switcher the L is the Lux signal from the PIR. Is this happening on both zones or just 1? I have had it where the light level slightly changes nigh by night etc, It maybe you have a switcher issue but they are pretty solid as a rule

Thats great. Wnated to check you hadnt got 2 L wires connected. Id adjust the Lux pot to minimum and see if the lights work all the time (ie daylight too)

LDR failing on the PIR, Movement of the POT, increased resisitance in a join in the pir could be many reasons. If the switcher thinks it is daylight it wont turn the lights on when activated. Id just confirm its not that before we blame the switcher.

Hi there. Id suggest if manual is working its probably the lux level. Can you upload an image of how the switcher is wired. Mainly the low voltage connections. TS

I doubt moving stuff in a cupboard would cause a pcb fault. Can you upload a photo of the panel showing the connection you have disconnected

Can you upload an image, when you say vga do you mean vga res or vga cable?