Secware_Tech6

We get this question in support quite a lot. A Panel doesnt come with a battery as it needs to be sized to suit the demand of the system. Plus you need to consider recharge time and battery recharge load. Its never best practice to load a panel or power supply up to its maximum. Its like driving at maximum speed of the vehicle everywhere or having the music at full volume all the time. EN norms (the current UK standard for Intruder Alarms is EN50131 There are differing requirements for standby at Grade 1,2,3 and 4. Grade 2 and 3 systems are the majority of professional systems installed in the UK. Grade 2 requires a 12 hour standby time. Grade 3 24 hours (unless signalling AC fail to the ARC) I would always advise a tolerance for battery age and never use really cheap batteries. Quality batteries are essential. Once you have either calculated your standby current or checked with a meter that will give you a reading. We also need to calculate / measure Alarm current. If we assume a few readings for a typical system. Control Panel, 1 x Keypad, 1 x External Sounder, 1 x Internal sounder, 4 x PIR detectors, 2 x Vibration and a door contact. Lets assume a 380mA standby current. This gives us a standby current of 380mA per hour. Lets also assume an alarm current of 800mA. Most quality control panels are going to be rated at 1A min total current. As we have a limit of 15m Bell time under EN 50131 we can safely use half of the 800mA Alarm current (30 mins = 400mA) so 380mA x 12 (hours) = 4560 mA total current Lets add the 400mA of alarm current in (30 minutes of the 800mA per hour in alarm) gives us a total required for 12 hours of standy plus 30 mins of alarm of 4960 mA As batteries are sized in A/h (Amps per hour) we know we need a minimum of 5A/h battery Now id add a 10% age factor. The battery is only going to give its stated rating for a period of time. The older the battery the lower this output will be. That is why we should all be changing batteries at the latest every 5 years. Some will fail sooner or wont give the output required to meet the 12 hr standby requirement, so will need replacing sooner. so back to the maths, 4960 mA + 10% = 5456 mA 5456 mA or 5.5Amps The closest 12v alarm battery is a 7Amp unit Its a little more complicated as standby battery ratings are calculated on a 24 hour discharge not 12 hours. ie you cant put a 7A load on a 7A/h battery and expect it to last an hour. Also as a lead acid battery discharges its voltage drops. This will eventually become too low (problem will start to occur below 10.8v) and crashes etc will happen. Now you can see why those picking batteries on cost (using a 1.2 A/h) or just whatever fits isnt the best way to go!

no they are for the easyset only the galaxy fobs are https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-galaxy-ask-keyprox-proximity-fob-p-1460.html a keyprox keypad (mk7 is the cheaper one) is https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/control-panels-all-c-36_102_41/microtech-galaxy-mk7-keyprox-lcd-keypad-p-699.html and is currently £93.98 the flex gives you some programming flexability but maybe a kit overkill. The issue you have is wanting hybrid it puts you into a different range of product. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/1124-input-zone-medium-c-36_102_103/honeywell-galaxy-flex-20-uk-panel-mk7-keyprox-p-3972.html might be a lower cost way of getting a panel and keypad. The panels with built in rf recievers are mainly wireless only

no its not capable of wireless

WHat you want is a hybrid panel. That will take the rf keyfobs for arming with correct security etc. But also take the wired detection https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/1124-input-zone-medium-c-36_102_103/honeywell-flex-20-panel-only-p-5458.html Keypad of choice depending of prox or not https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/control-panels-all-c-36_102_41/microtech-galaxy-mk7-lcd-keypad-p-700.html needs an rf portal https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-galaxy-flex-direct-mount-rf-portal-p-2497.html then a keyfob etc https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-4button-keyfob-black-p-3607.html

the frequency isnt the only thing to be concerned about. They also use their own protocol so a visonic 868 peripheral wont work on a pyronix etc. Assuming you want to use the same fob to open the garage doors and also control the alarm your going to need something with flexibility and RF options. Nothing a euro mini is capable of. I would recommend using the alarm to control the door rather than the door control the alarm due to the security aspect. ie you read about 'people' driving round with 433 transmitters to see if any doors open etc. That cant happen with an alarm fob Id look at either app control, if a registered installer the HKC can do this with either keyfob or app. If not then id look at honeywell dimension or vanderbilt spc Or put a keypad on the euro mini in the garage

creation

The current stock we have states FW 3.1.10

Hi I am looking at the texecom ricochet elite 32 xp-w unit and wanted to know what the software version of the unit was?

We have had a few enquiries about how to install a door contact to a frameless glass door. I dont currently know of a single product, as an installer it would be usual to build up the contact based on the individual door for example

What's it coming up with when setting A Also re call-out charges 150 is about right for a non contract call-out, bear in mind it's their living. Dunno what you do but few people work for cost for long

ok. So as its responding on diagnostics it cant be programmed correctly. Are you allowing the device to settle after last detection before testing? You can cover it over if needed to prevent detection

Is the battery seated correctly and the right way?

id expect to see life from the sensor assuming the tampers are closed too. What does diagnostics say on that device from the panel

Is the battery seated correctly and the right way?

No im afraid not it is long obsolete and so is iD. So its possibly not a simple control equipment replacement. Depending on your cabling it may need some recabling. The only system that supports iD cabling is the HKC 10270 but that is a restrictd product only available to approved companies

you obviously want the double pole wiring config for an accenta

No if you look on the sheet that came with the contact it shows you the wiring config.

yes you need to remove both jumpers on the contact but if you are getting 2 ohms thats a good reading. If you look at the install sheet it shows how to wire this contact for non eol use. Is your alignment good between magnet and contact, there isnt much 'play' laterally? If you want to check for interference (unlikely) you can link out at the door and prove the cable.

thankyou

just to start with have you cut any links as you have an eol door contact on a non eol panel? You sure its reading 2 Ohms, or 2K etc?

Something like this? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/cctv-c-1/detection-c-1_24/takex-40m-ext80m-int-4-channel-twin-beams-inc-pole-clamps-p-2934.html

easy way to test the programming is to open the circuit connections on that device and see if the panel reports. If not it is programmed incorrectly

Can you create a new topic for this please. Just for admin purposes keeping threads on topic where possible

There should be 0v on the tamper return cable from the sab

You also have a tamper on the external bell and the keypads. Have you checked all those?