Intruder Alarms

Hi, wonder if anyone can help. I have a Pyronix sterling10 Panel and RKP and i am changing the bell box for a Gardtec Eurosec XS3D (the triangular one) i have wiring diagrams for both but i an unsure which wires go to where ...Could anyone enlightem me?? ...ie i.e ST- on bell box to NO on panel, TMPR on bellbox to BElLL- on panel etc.. Please help... regards//Martin.

We currently have a Karisma Plus wired system installed. There are 9 zones. It is getting creaky, I have repaired it several times, time for a change. Our Ancient house is not good for wifi, so I want to stick with a wired system for reliability, using existing wires as these are hidden. The Karisma uses a 3 wire id device, which made wiring and set up easy. Is there an equivalent today? Or what do you recommend? Integrating fire detection / alarm would be useful.

I have a new optima accenta gen 4 panel and an existing pyronix belle box. I have wiring diagrams for both but need help as to which wires go where! The wires are as follows:- PANEL - T = NEGATIVE (-VE) TAMPER RETURN A = NEGATIVE (-VE) SUPPLY (OV) D = POSITIVE (+VE) SUPPLY (12V) B = NEGATIVE (-VE) SOUNDER TRIGGER BOX - B- = NEGATIVE (-) B+ = POSITIVE (+) BA = BELL TRIGGER TERMINAL STB = STROBE TRIGGER TERMINAL BT = TAMPER RETURN TF = TAMPER FEED Any ideas please? Thanks in advance

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I have purchased a Castle Euro Mini. The box only contained a control panel and the main alarm panel.. I would like to purchase 3 PIRs and 2 door sensors plus a battery and a bell box. There are so many on your website. Please advise the best for my system. Is it possible to also fit a call sender?

anybody help as to why the is no 13v supply from the circuit board which means no supply to the pirs or door sensors. this is a new installation. all fuses checked ok but no back light to key pad either. I can put panel into engineering mode and day mode but that is all. All wiring has been removed and any links refitted but still nothing from the 13v. hope someone can help!

Hi all, Following a burglary at a neighbours house, I'm looking at "self-install" burglar alarms; I've had a couple of quotes from professional installers, and I just can't justify spending the amount they are asking for - especially when prices on here seem so reasonable. Basically, I want a fairly simple wireless system: * main box on the wall under the stairs (where there is power), * 4 wireless door sensors around the house (one on the front door to be entry/exit, and one on the sliding back door to be omitted on a part-set), * one wireless PIR for the lounge (where the dogs never go), * a keypad to arm/disarm by the front door (hardwired to the ma…

Hi, I am experiencing odd behaviour with a Visonic Powermaster 10. Due to a planned extended power cut, the panel was unplugged for 24 hours, during which time the battery went flat. The panel was reconnected to the mains when the power returned and it eventually booted back up. Since then it has suffered 3 false alarms from separate PIRs. Should I do a factory reset to try to resolve the issues? If so, is the only option a hardware reset? When I open the back of the panel I can see three pins marked DEF and 3 marked RST. Which pins should I jumper please? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Mark.

My elderly parents have a basic alarm system which has worked perfectly for over 20 years. The control unit has now gone faulty and requires replacement. Could you recommend a replacement unit which only has to cover two PIR zones and one entry/exit. The existing unit is key control under the stairs which is no longer ideal and I would prefer to fit a remote keypad just inside the entrance door. The external box should also be replaced so if you feel a complete kit would be a better deal then if you could recommend one it would be great. I should say that they are now looking to move to a retirement home so the system will probably only have to last them for about a year …

I need to buy the Visonic Powermaster kit 10. In addition I would like to have two proximity tags. Can I get them and, if yes are they compatible with the kit?

Is CQR cable worth the extra over ordinary alarm cable?

I would like to install either a Honeywell Galaxy 2-20 or 2-44. The house is very large with detached garages 10m away. Because the majority of the house floors can not be lifted and the decoration disturbed a wireless system must be fitted. This does not seem to be a problem for the Galaxy G2. Initial assessment suggest that in excess of 40 wireless detectors are required (dual-tec, door contacts, smoke alarms etc). As far as I can tell from the Honeywell specs there is no limit to the number of wireless detectors that can be added to the system, is this correct? Without doing a detailed RF site survey I anticipate that 2 RF portals will be required, the …

Hi I would like to add a couple of remote keyfobs (KTC805) to my existing Dominial installation. Is this the same process as adding a new user / proximity tag or is there a different process? Do installation instructions come with the keyfobs? Thanks Mark

Hi, I have a house and a detached garage, both currently covered by completely separate wired systems. There are separate Bell Boxes, one on the front of the house and one on the garage. As the house system has become faulty, I am about to replace both systems with 1 Homelink 55. I want to continue to have SABs on both buildings (with the flashing LEDs to prove that they're real). I could just power the unit on the garage (no wires other than power connect from house to garage) and hardwire it so that its just decorative, but wanted to have it operational. I've been looking at the information available and am confused. Can I achieve what I want, i.e. remotely tri…

Hey all, I recently moved out of a house that had a Galaxy G2 system. I have recently bought a Flex 20 for the new house we've just moved to, and everything is now working as expected apart from one thing I can't get my head around. On the old system, we had a Wireless Magnetic Sensor on the front door. This was set up so that when we Full Set the system, that Function was a FINAL zone. If we Night Set (or Part Set), the function was INTRUDER. This meant if the door was opened whilst in Night Set mode, an immediate alarm was triggered. If it was opened during full set, the entry time was triggered. To set this up, we could go into Engineer mode, into the Zone, in…

Hi all, I hope this generates some discussion and hopefully for me an informed conslusion which will send me down the right path to purchase. I am looking at installing my first wireless alarm system (I have installed a few wired systems in the past but that was a long time ago) so technology has improved somewhat however I have some specific requirements which I am hoping some expert guidance will help me choose an appropriate system. The property is a new build with 3 levels, there is a garage within the build however there is no access from inside the house (only garage door access), gates to each side of the property and the rear of the property has a 30 ft …

Hope someone can give some help or suggestions. After being broken into earlier in the year, I have finally got round to installing the alarm system that was purchased a couple of months ago. Every thing seems to work, that is after a minor wiring fault on the global system tamper, which turned out to be poor connection on vibration sensor (front door). The problem is the external sounder will not function at all, apart from the tamper circuit. There is definitely power from the control panel and the standby battery has 8 volts. I have tried the trouble shooting instructions in the installation manual, which is make temp connection between SAB B and D for the sound…

Hello, We recently moved into a house that has a non functional wired ITEC Meridian panel (prob. 20 years old?). It has power to it but the front keypad does not respond to any key presses, and the alarm it not activated by the tamper switches on the panel door. The last occupiers never used it (over 12 years or so) and did not have any codes or manuals so I was thinking that the easiest solution would be to fit a new panel. I've no experience with alarms but I am an electronics engineer so am happy to give it a try with some helpful advice:) Present zone layout: Z1: PIR on stairs (6 core cable) Z2: Garage door magnetic reed switch (6 core cable) Z3: 5 of GS610…

Hi, I'm looking to install an alarm system for a steel shed with no windows. Alarms are all very new to me so I'd appreciate some advice. What I want to achieve is: - An audible alarm activated when the door is opened. - A system that runs on mains power, but which has a battery backup of at least 2 weeks. - Preferably some way of disabling the alarm before entering the shed, avoiding the need to have a period to allow for a code/key to be used to disable the alarrm once the door is open. - Surface contact sensors on the door. Is this achievable, or am I looking for something that doesn't exist? I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has any. All advice gr…

Hello I'm hoping to replace my existing intruder alarm panel with the Scantronic 9561 series panel. I do see that securitywarehouse is selling both the EN, and UK models of 9561. Now I know that 9561EN is a grade 2 alarm, and that 9561UK is ungraded. Are there any other differences in the two? Basically my question boils down to: Which one of the two should I go for, considering the fact that its going to be DIY installation, so do I need the EN model? Is the UK model flushed with older software in comparison to the EN model? Why is the 9561UK slightly more expensive than the 9561EU, even though the EU model is graded, whereas the UK model is not? Tha…

I need help please. Bought a A083-00-01 Ethernet module off ebay (yes silly idea) to install into a FX020 install I've just completed. Module has no status LEDs and the system does not see it. Before I order a new one from SW, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something? I would have thought the module would flash an LED even with no connection to the main board with power applied. I'm sure it is dead. Any advice much appreciated, thank you

Hello, I have a scantronic 500r.+ system installed in 2002 which has been regularly serviced and works as installed. I now have a low battery light for one of the PIRs but the installer & servicer seems to have gone out of business as his phone contact is no longer recognised. Please could you say how to change the battery on the PIR as I do not know whether it has a tamper proof feature or not, hence, if I interfere with the PIR will it set off the alarm? Thanks for your help, Roger

We get this question in support quite a lot. A Panel doesnt come with a battery as it needs to be sized to suit the demand of the system. Plus you need to consider recharge time and battery recharge load. Its never best practice to load a panel or power supply up to its maximum. Its like driving at maximum speed of the vehicle everywhere or having the music at full volume all the time. EN norms (the current UK standard for Intruder Alarms is EN50131 There are differing requirements for standby at Grade 1,2,3 and 4. Grade 2 and 3 systems are the majority of professional systems installed in the UK. Grade 2 requires a 12 hour standby time. Grade 3 24 hours (…

I used the Honeywell Activ8 PIR in an installation in a house where they have a cat. I have set the tolerance to 15kg and pulse to medium (jumper link between 2 and 3) There have been a few false alarms in different rooms and none of the sensors face a window or stairs, there are chairs and sofas though. I have changed the sensors to the highest tolerance yesterday - 25kg and fitted the jumper link between 3 and 4. Which I wouldn't think is necessary for a cat. Is there anything i may have missed that caused that problem? I don't know yet whether the change I made is good yet as i've only done it yesterday. Is it maybe because it's a relatively cheap pet se…

I am replacing a Karisma plus alarm system in a large house. Unfortunately this randomly goes off & is especially susceptible to fluorescent lights. Requirements for new system:- Be able to identify all items individually and have them displayed with name on RKP eg kitchen window, front door. House has several loops of 4 core (unscreened) cable so can't put items on individual wiring. No windows = 17 no doors = 3 no PIRs = 6 no fire detectors = 2 no RKPs = 3 System should have dialer + speech module or GSM Hopefully system can be set to detect two events before alarming.