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6 no vipergxl on one zone, last viper led not working ,wired in 6 core , ps led on viper no 6 worked ok for approx 3 days ,checked power ok .alarm test ok other 5 vipers led ok

Hi, Please follow the following 7 core wiring of the viper glx for LED indication : Dip switch 1 : ON Dip switch 2 : OFF Terminal no Viper GLX Panel 1 alarm zone 2 alarm terminals 3 tamp tamper 4 tamp terminals 5 12V 12V power supply 6 0V 7 SET should be connected to an output in the panel, which gives 12V when the panel is SET 8 FTA not used

viper led not flashing, installed 14 no viper gxl set dil switch 1 off dil switch 2 on all leds flashing ok for three days checked wiring ok checked voltage ok viper led flashed ok for approx 20 mins then stopped viper works on alarm test , just led not working on this viper

DM/2060-243 Colour/Monochrome, 485/232 telemetry, coax, 36x optical, 12 x digital, 470 TVL, 0.1/0.01 lux, 200 presets, 4 alarm inputs, 1 alarm output, 24V AC

DM/2060-203 6” Outdoor 18x Day/Night 24Vac PSU Clear Dome for RS485 or DM/BBV/Baxall/Pelco UTC (English/ Spanish/ Dutch/ Italian/ French) Inc DRX Card with 4 alarms DM/2060-241 6” Indoor 36x Day/Night 24Vac PSU Clear Dome for RS485 or DM/BBV/Baxall/Pelco UTC control (English/ Spanish/ Dutch/ Italian/ French)

All unused zones are shorted out.

The Dennard 2060 Domes, you have 3 different versions of (2060-203 / 2060-241 / 2060-243). I just wanted to know what is the difference between them all? Thank You.

Hi, I want to purchase 1x heat sensor and 2 x smoke sensor to add to my current BT VP1000 alarm system. Can you advise me on what is compatible with it.

Link out the unused zones, even if the zones are disabled and then try it again.

Only zones 1,4,5 used .zone 1 is the exit/entry zone .All PIR detectors work on walk test and zone 1 works in chime mode.The alarm sets OK system bleeping until set . when the entry zone ( 1 ) operates it goes straight to alarm , after reset code entered the panel has zone 1 flashing only.

I measured the Resistance on the circuits, TAMP next to the PA circuit was 24 ohms, I now have shorted this out temporary. Tamp for the keypad was measured at 1.4 ohms, The one for the bell box (Terminals T and A), I disconnected and the alarm bell began sounding, These wires were measured at a high resistance. But even with these terminals on the main board linked out I could not get the bell to stop sounding or clear tamper fault. I disconnected the battery and switched off mains and with the bell T and A terminals shorted out I managed to clear the tamper fault but the bell kept sounding. I put the wires back in and reset the bell ok but the display shows tamper fault again. So I am guessing there is an issue with this circuit. Can you explain what signals I should expect on here and should I be able to measure any voltage on these wires that goto the return and hold terminals on the bell box? Its not clear what signals are to be expected to and from the bell box on these wires.

I just want you to know that the problem was solved when I entered the installation mode, did some checks, and when I exited again it removed the yellow trouble light and the warning.

Tamper fault lockout is mainly with respect to the tamper circuit being open. There are 3 tamper circuits on the panel, 1) bell tamper circuit ( T & A terminal on the bell circuit), 2) zones tamper circuit ( tamp terminals next to the PA circuit) and 3) keypad tamper circuit ( on the keypad bus for tamp terminals ). So loop out all the 3 tamper circuits and then hold down the cover spring for the panel, and then check whether the tamper fault clears or not.

When you set the panel, and you trip the front door, the panel goes into alarm, and you put in your code in the keypad to silence the alarm. After that you need to check which leds on the keypad are lit solid and which leds are flashing. The one that is flashing is the first zone to go into alarm, followed by the zone leds which are solid. This will help to find out which is the first zone you tripping.

But the battery is not drained, I have tested it. Also I see that the detector is fully functional and does not give me the Yellow light for low battery. Could it help to un-register it at the central unit and re-register it again? And what about the micro switches at the back, can they be used to reset the warning? I am not ready to discard it after less than 2 years of use, just because of a "low battery warning".

If the unit is consistently sayin LowBattery even when the battery has been changed several times it must be the unit that is faulty, for some reason it must be draining the current from the battery. Sorry but there's no way to fix this, it should have reset itself as soon as a new battery is in the unit.

I have a MCT-425 Smoke detector that warns about "Low-Battery" even though I have replaced the battery several times. I see this error on my control panel of my Visonic unit. The detector seems to be working OK, it gives med the regular 30 secons red flash. How do I remove this warning?

Hi, I purchased a ADE Honeywell Accenta Mini Gen4 with LCD Keypad on 01/05/2010, This has a problem where it says "Tamper Fault Lockout" on the keypad, I have tested all the tamper circuits and they are very low resistance. I suspect the main board or remote keypad is faulty although the fault only occured when I removed the panic button for decorating. I cannot get it to reset.

fitted new panel no problems, but unable to get entry time to work full alarm goes off as soon as door opened . tried setting up as described in engineer's manual page 38 . Is it something I'am doing or is the panel faulty ?

the answer to your question is yes the C079-2 Portal can work on any G2 panel and that includes the G2-12.

I am fitting a new intruder alarm system to my house, and want to utilise the wired sensors, etc I already have. However I want to have remote control operation as well. To achieve this I am looking at the Galaxy G2-12 panel with wireless expander (RF Portal) and wireless remote controls. Is the wireless module compatible wiht the G2-12 or do I have to move up to the G2-20?

Please can you advise which of the surface contacts you sell would be suitable for use in conjunction with the wired input of the 'Visonic MC-302e PG2' wireless magnetic contact.

i am looking for a suitable replacment for a karizma + system that i installed many years ago, the system must use id type biscuits as the system was wired this way originally , can the castle euro one do this and if so can you supply it with a 125 khx prox keypad?

Hoping you can help, I need the reverse of the typical plug-in light sensor mains adaptor, i.e. to switch on the appliance when there is bright sunlight, and switch off when dark. If it has timer in it, then even better. So, I am after a device that works the opposite to these for a 240v appliance: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-Indoor-TDD-MP-Dusk-Till-Dawn-Adaptor/dp/B003PU49X6/ref=pd_cp_ce_2 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Techmar-Plug-Play-Timer-Sensor/dp/B003C0IUHA/ref=sr_1_3?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1335366049&sr=1-3 Ideally, the light sensor is on a wire like this: http://www.thelightworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1829 Hope you can help, or possibly advise if an existing "dusk to dawn" version one can be made to work in reverse.

On the Accenta Mini Gen 4 Panel there are 2 U shaped staples connecting the tamper circuits for the keypad and siren. Should these stay in place at all times or be removed when the keypad and siren are fitted?