Secware

i was thinking that i could use some wire and connect the auxiliary input of MC-302E PG2 with a outdoor PIR sensor but i don't know if this could be done.I was thinking of the OPTEX BX80 NR (maybe if it fits i install the MC302E PG2 inside the BX80NR)cause i can't imagine a way to have my balcony covered (12x2,4m) with the TOWER 20AM PG2. Do you think i could do such a thing? or what other option i have to cover this area with Visonic compatible product ?

I have installed this panel as a direct replacement to an older veritas excel panel as such 5 x pir, 2 x external sounders & 2 x smoke sensors are configured as previous eol set up ie 2 resistors in the sensors. I had a functional premier elite rkp to hand and have installed this with the new system. I cannot get the system to set up properly, it displays system alerts for the panel lid tamper etc even though the panel lid id closed securely as well as tamper faults for 2 of the 5 pirs, i cannot see any wiring faults and am now thinking this may be a panel fault, can you give me a little guidance please. Wondering whether to buy a coms cable and try to programme from the pc/wintex software to eliminate the rkp. Please advise.

There should be a label on the unit? but either has fallen of or was not put on. Apologies. As you look at the back of the unit starting from the left the connections start + - S1 R1 S2 R2

I recently purchased some Voltek security light equipment from you, and I am trying to connect it up, but I am stuggling with the Securilite TZX 1819 Command Centre. The wiring diagram shows to connect the 1812 unit to the 1819 unit as + to +, - to -, S1 to S1 etc. Although the 1812 unit is clearly labelled, there is no indication on the 7 screw terminals on the 1819 unit which terminal is +, which is - etc. Do you have any ideas?

Here is what you can try. 1. Check the voltage at the keypad between 0v and Comm, it should be 5v dc. 2. Power down and power up the panel with battery first and then mains. 3. Try connecting just one keypad once.

bought a complete system buy you. Now I have a configuration issue. The alarm triggers directly when I enter, now entry delay is active. I have chosen 1. Exit/entry delay 1 for door contact and 3. home e/e for motion sensor in hallway. Is this correct? I want to be able to have Home zone active without triggering the alarm (except when door is opened). Should I choose antoher zone type for motion sensor in hallway?

I have just completed an instalation of a accenta G4 from yourselves,on powering up i can reset the alarm by entering factory user code but the display on the 2 LCD keypads is all black squares,please can you advise any help checked wiring but all seems correct with panel and both keypads.

I purchased a Honeywell Accenta Metal Gen4 Control Panel and Viper GLX Shock Sensors from you a couple of years ago (Order #16133). I am only getting around to installing the alarm system now and I have a query which I hope you can answer. Before I bought the house, part of the house had already been pre-wired with 4-core alarm cable. One of the pre-wired zones at the rear of the house is wired with 4-core cable and the sensor points are linked in series, i.e. the alarm circuit and tamper circuit are both linked in series. The cables to each sensor are connected under a tiled floor, so the junction box is impossible to access without breaking tiles. As the sensor locations are linked in series, I cannot use the powered (Viper GLX) sensors I purchased without running in a new cable, which I want to avoid if possible, as it will involve a lot of re-decorating. Is there an alternative shock sensor I can use with the Accenta Gen4 panel that will work on 4-core wiring linked in series?

I have a set of garages with two alarms installed that both join to a single masterblaster in the roof. I want a dialer that rings me or another member of the family if the alarm is triggered or the power is cut on the system. Sorry, I'm not very technical, but can the GSM dialer be connected in the roof space on the same wires as the masterblaster? Obviously the masterblaster will not work if the power goes down and so I wanted an autodialler as a back up. If so how much wiring would be needed and is it straight forward?

I would recommend the FX-50SQ, as the FX Series is designed to provide stable and reliable detection in the most hostile of environments: http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=434

I am wanting to place an order but one of the items I want to purchase is a suitable motion detector for my timber workshop. Please can you advise me on what type of detector is best suited (most stable) to this environment where there will be temperature changes, possible insects and there is 3 windows. It is a good quality workshop like a log cabin, I have had a look at your sensors but I am unsure when it offers pir, microwave, dual tech etc ? Thanks

Prog>>Engg Code Prog>>3>>6>>1 Reset X 3 times leave engg menu. Enter user code and the p, now you should get an option to set Program 3.

<pre> To Set Program 3, you have to enable Exit mode. Please follow the instructions Below, Prog>>Engg Code Prog>>3>>6>>1 Reset X 3 times leave engg menu. Enter user code and the p, now you should get an option to set Program 3. Hope this helps </pre> <p> </p>

enter engineer program mode scroll thru to P enter3 inhibit zones press x 3 times leave engineers mode system unset enter user code press p LCD still only offers set program 1 no other option offered

Can you suggest a package to provide 3 x independently switchable on/off beams of 12m, 9m, 6m span with a control panel and sounder. The sounder to mute after a preset time. the system to be mains/ 12v powered. The detectors to be preferably powered from one end only of each beam. As cheap as possible, p.s. external use near the ocean.

I purchased an ade Optima Compact alarm system which I have fitted all seemed fine until I tried to alter the customer code from **** it would not accept the change but stopped the system from working. I have tried resetting the system back to factory settings as outlined in the manual but it does not work when the alarm is powered up it goes right into alarm but no LED lights show (not even the battery power)and the code **** does not rest/stop the alarm.

when setting the alarm i get the following error message + Line Failcom 1 what does this mean how do i get around this error message i am not connecting it to any phone line Also why does the Diagnostic LED flash- does this mean anything

I would possibly suggest testing line with a normal phone, if you are alble to dial out, then it appears the dialler is faulty

Thanks for your reply. Yes it's a normal BT line with a filter fitted. There is no need to dial 9. As I say it opens line which you can hear and appears to dial as you hear that but it never seems to get a connection. I'd appreciate any help you can give.

I take it this is an analouge line? Do you have an ADSL filter on the line? Do you require a 9 or pause for an outside line before dialling?

I purchased a Meniver SD2 from you a while ago and have just got round to fitting it but it isn't working and I'd like some help to get it work. I have wired the autodialer into an alarm system and all appears to be good until the unit goes to dial out. I have run test facility and the unit opens the line and then dials, it's says on the screen wiring to dial. I can hear a dial tone before the dialling but the call does not connect. Then before you can hear any connection to the dialled number the unit starts to send out the recorded message after a few seconds. The line test on the unit shows that the line is ok and the fact that a dial tone can be heard before it dials the number would suggest that the connections here are OK. Can you suggest what else may be wrong with the unit or the setup. I've got a addled filter on the socket and a phone works fine on it to. I would really appreciate your help in this as it is very frustrating that it will not work.

My first question is can you confirm the total load current of the AG6 is 260mA max as I seen else where figures higher than this. The total load for the Logic six is only 1A. My second question is could the second AG6 be wired with only the strobe operating but keeping the anti tamper working? If so how would this be wired?

I installed a 4 zone controller, DygiZone (GJD910) and expansion panel (GJD040) with 7 Mini Opal external PIRs (GJD 332). 1. During the installation and initial setting of the PIR’s I had to remove each cover several times. Some of the PIR’s retained their Hex retaining screw with a plastic washer but quite a few them fell out. Inevitably with such a small screw I managed to lose 2 of them. Is it possible to get hold of replacement screws and washers through security warehouse? If not do you have the specification? I could do with at least 6. 2. I have also recorded a voice message for each lighting zone but the quality of the recording isn’t very good. Sounds like a world war 2 pilot in a Lancaster bomber. Is it faulty or is there a technique for achieving a higher quality recording. I.E. how close should you be from the microphone etc. 3. Any advice you can offer for setting up the PIR’s to cover set distances and areas would be helpful. Each PIR is mounted at 2.8 meters above ground and look down the sides of the house, 3 of the zones have 2 PIR’s and point towards each other. The surrounding area is fairly flat. The distance to the boundaries is, rear 8.25m, side garden 6.15m, front 6.8m, forth side 2m to neighbours house.

<pre> You cannot put 2 rf detectors into 1 zone but if I understand your question you can have more than 1 zone programmed as a entry exit zone</pre> <p> </p>

THE "HKC 2 WAY WIRELESS QUANTUM KIT" BUT THE CLIENT WANTS TO USE 2 ENTRY EXIT DOORS . SO I WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN TWIN A PIR WITH A DOOR CONTACT AND PUT THEM BOTH ON THE ENTRY EXIT ZONE . SO THEY CAN SET THE ALARM SIMPLY BY PRESSING SET ON THE OPTIONAL KEY FOBS YOU SELL , INSTEAD OF OMITTING ZONES AND STUFF WHEN SETTING THE ALARM ON THE KEY PAD