Secware

I am after help in resetting password on this system as i dont remember the password when installed. And just some set up help please.

I have a customer with a broken Veritas 8C controller. They have 2nd remote R8 keypad. If I install a new Veritas V8C controller is the old 2nd keypad compatible?

I have put in te GSM 350 PG2 module into the Powermaster 30 G2, but it don't seems to work. When I do a diognostic test it shows: "GSM not detected" What could the problem be??

Hi I ordered some Honeywell ECO1002 detectors with ECO1000BREL12L bases, I intend to fit install them on a Galaxy Flex 20 system, reading through documentation I believe I need non-latching bases is that correct and do the bases have the required resistors installed.

I'm afraid if you do not have access to a router via a LAN port then the PowerLink2 will not work as it cannot connect to wireless routers/mobile internet devices via WLAN.

It would help to locate any issues on this system's SW version do you have the kit's serial number (located on the white kit box), then I can check it on Visonic database and see if there are any generic issues.

I am looking to get a security monitoring system were is no access for a landline (router) only to use GPS services. I was looking on connecting Visonic Powermax pro including Powerlink 2 unit with a sim card with data package. For a vision monitoring I want to connect a PTZ IP (axis???) outdoor dome camera which will be linked to the Powermax pro (how is it connected?) Could you please advice which camera will operate with this unit and how the system should work if the is only a mobile router (sim card with a data package) or is there some other solution how to connect this system and view it online?

We have a Visonic powermaster 10 with problems accessing the gsm network. I am not able to control it or obtain status reports via sms, and when I run the GSM/GPRS diagnostics it reports "Gsm net. fail". I am not aware of any issues with the SIM card or the subscription, but I thought I would try using another SIM. However, the installation manual clearly states no to insert or remove SIM card when the control panel is powered by AC or battery. Hence I need to remove the backup battery, but on page 59 in the user guide it is stated that I should contact my installer to perform the backup battery replacement. Since I installed the system myself, I do not have any installer to contact for this. Hence i need instructions on how to remove the backup battery. I would of course also appreciate any ideas of what can be the cause of the gsm net fail problem.

We recently bought some pendant transmitters from you for a Powermax+ Alarm system. I sucessfully installed 1 of them (more by accident I think) but am struggling to make the other work. I find the instructions very confusing! Please can you help...

Hello, I resently puschased a PowerMater 10 alarm system from you and am now starting to install the equipment. There is a problem with the display on the master unit, it seems like it doesnt remove some of the characters and some texts looks really weird. For example, int the start screen it says "15:16EADY : " where i guess it should say "15:16 : READY ". If I have a fault it switches between "NOT READY TRBL" and "15:16EADY : " There are also some really strange characters for the zone naming when I try to add equipment to the system. Everything else seems to be working though, I can add equipment and arm/disarm the system. I have tried doing a "Factory default" but this doesnt help.

I have purchased a belle and two twin alerts by pynonix (order no 33462) to install on a scantronic 9752 panel. Neither the scantronic nor either belle/twinalert manuals match each other so would like some guidance on wiring these up. The scantronic manual has the following output:NO1, NO2, Tr, 12V AUX and 0V, and a separate +, and LS for internal loudspeaker. The belle has B-, B+, BA, STB, SPARE, BT and TF, The twin alert has 12V+, 12V-, SPK and BA The belle shows the following connections for scantronic: B+ = 12V B- = 0v BA = BELL STB = STROBE- BT = TR TF = 0V The TwinAlert has: 12V+ = +12V 12V- = 0V SPK = SPKR (low) BA = BELL The scantronic manual does not give wiring example for any pyronix items.

Which cable is best to use for the Comm's network ie Galaxy Panel to Keypads and to RIO's?

I am looking too install a wired alarm system into a large powered garage and would like a recommendation on which of your products would be most suitable. Ideally I would like the control unit (with battery backup) separate to a keypad (or fob reader) so that it can be installed out of harms way. If possible, I would also like an external siren with strobe. For the sensors I think 2 PIRs would suffice however, these need to avoid false alarms so perhaps dual sensing ones would be better for me. The PIRs need to be able to cope with more extreme temperatures than inside a house, a hot motor vehicle being parked in front of them and probably the odd spider or two. Please can you provide a recommendation for a basic system that would meet my needs?

On the Sterling 10 there are outputs that can be programmed as "keyswitch" that can be connected to certain external equipment that can arm and disarm. Pyronix produce a Prox SA that is a stand alone tag reader that connects to the Sterling and can be used to arm and disarm via presenting a tag: http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/pyronix-stand-alone-tag-reader-used-for-armingdisarming-system-p-3236.html

I am after a remote that will work on a Sterling 10 for setting/unsetting? Is this possible?

I am quite new to wiring intruder alarms. I just purchased the H-well ADE Accenta 4 x PET PIR Starter Kit and have the following questions: 1. My current intruder alarm has an internal siren and a strobe both in serial connection to a PIR. Is this possible with the H-well kit or do they both have to have their own wiring? 2. According to the H-well Engineer's Manual the strobe should be connected with yellow, white, green, red and black. What about the blue? 3. I have an internal siren which is connected with 6 core cable but extension speakers should be connected with 2 wires according to Engineer's Manual. What do I do? 4. 6 core wiring in general. Does it matter which colour I choose for the different inputs as long as I connect for example the same colour for Tamp on PIR and TAMP on panel?

Hi, we are looking at the Honeywell EC01000 range of detectors. We require Optical & Ionization, can you recomend an Ionization Detector for the Honeywell Galaxy Dimension Panel and explain the diffrence in the standard and diode base. Am I right in thinking these have no sounder and if so what compatible internal sounder is available?

Hello, I have now received my alarm but when I connect power I get a fault code: - NOT READY TRBL MEMORY and I can not find this fault code in the maual or on Visonics webpage. Please advise how to proceed.

I am planning an alarm for my house. It should be hybrid with wired and wirefree sensors. I have been looking at Scantronic. Which of Homelink 55 and I-on40 do you recommend? No price difference as I get it. Are there any other brands that you reccommend?

I have now received my Visonic Powermaster 10 replacement panel and everything works just fine. Thank you. But I would like you to contact Visonic and ask them if they have changed anything in the new release in the way the panel communicates with the IPMP-server. When I try the panel with firmware release 12 everything works ok, and I get alarm messages mailed to me via the IPMP-server. But the new panel with release 15, and same settings, gets "denied by server". Does the Powermanage server needs to be upgraded? Or is it some new setting I am missing in the Powermaster panel?

I wish to set up a perimeter system to my property consisting of 3 sets of takex external 4 beam. I was wondering which transmitters and receivers (GSM) you recommend for such, and also if there are any security lights that could be triggers by breaking the beams,

I have a flat which is fairly secure and unlikely to be broken into. However for £200 or so it seems a good idea to fit an alarm. I have been considering the Yale Premium and was looking at a forum on http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=255745&start=30. One contributor was not so keen on the Yale alarm and stated: ?If you really want a Yale system, try this instead. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1015 Similar price and a graded product. http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2202 I have looked at your site but find it difficult to see what would be best. I like the Yale for its Zoning (alarm at home), the Communication, the Remote Controls (keyfob or keypad), Wireless and DIY at around £185 which includes 2 PIRs and 2 Door Contacts but excludes any Remote Controls. Using the Yale as a benchmark, are you able to suggest a system for me and also give the main advantages / disadvantages?

System is in day mode and I have 13v across the strobe terminals. As I said in the ticket, the panel was working fine until the most recent alarm event. What happens now? The panel is only a couple of months old.

The strobe will not reset until the panel goes into day mode. So, just to test the alarm panel check the voltage across Strobe + and strobe - it should be 0v under day mode.If it stays to 13v during day mode then it might be a fault with systemHope this helps,

Accenta G4 mini from you. Connected it up and fully tested including under alarm conditions. Last week I had an alarm activation which worked fine BUT the strobe will not reset. Thinking I had a faulty siren I bought a Honeywell ActiveGuard AG3 from you. I powered down the panel and connected the new siren. Repowered and the strobe was immediately flashing and still won't reset! Powered down the panel and connected the siren with a short length of new cable. Repowered the panel and the strobe was immediately flashing and still won't reset.