Replacing Old System - Advice Needed

[Baz]

Hi, I hope that you can help.

 

I currently have a Texecom Veritas R8 wired system that is misbehaving and I am looking to change to a wireless system.  I have recently decorated so do not want to start routing new cables and lifting carpets/floorboards.

 

The house is a 3 bed semi, so I don't need the highest spec system.  After reading several reports, I'm considering the Scantronic Homelink 55, although I am open to suggestions.

 

The control panel is currently situated in a cupboard under the stairs and I intend locating this in the same place.  However, I have a few questions.

 

1)  I want a wireless remote keypad.  Can the Homelink 55 operate with one, or do I need the I-ON 16. ?

 

2)  The fact that the control panel is in an enclosed cupboard, will it have a detrimental effect on the signal being received ?

 

3)  I will run 4 wireless PIR

[Secware]

Hi Baz,

 

Please could you raise a ticket for me with your phone number, as I need to talk you through this, and ask you some questions,

 

Thank you

Elaine

[ravis94]

Can I just ask why you would like to go wireless? If you already have a veritas R8 just buy another and you swap the cables over like for like! simple. With wireless systems they can be difficult to get your head around and you have to think about batteires.

 

I'd personally just buy the same panel and swap the cables over. If you already have cables run then there is no point in not using them in my opinion. Its cheaper too as you dont have to buy all the special devices etc...!

 

Totally up to you!

[Baz]

Yes, I see your point.  However, I'm not certain what is causing the problems with my current system.  Amongst other things, the alarm will go off (always during the night) and I can't deactivate it as the keypad is completely inoperable - it won't register any key press.  The only way to stop the alarm ringing is by completely disconnecting it from the mains and battery.  Not fun when you are bleary eyed at 2am.

 

Having rung Texecom (I do not consider they were very helpful), they suggested it could be a cabling problem.  So rather than replacing the control box and keypad with like for like, and using the existing cables, with which there may be a problem, I thought that I would go wireless.

 

But as I said, I'm totally open to suggestions.

 

Thanks again

 

Baz

[ravis94]

when you say your keypad does not register any keypresses are any of the lights lit on the keypad? I recommend you isolate any power to the unit and take the keypad off of its mounting plate and check the wires are all seperate.

 

Then I suggest you track where the cable from the keypad to control panel goes, is it under the carpets, near the stairs etc as you could have worn the wire away when you walk on it and if you just happen to step on it the power could be removed or start touching. Anyway open up the end station with the 2 screws on the front lid and see if any cables are touching when they arent supposed to.

 

The keypad connections are T R 12V 0V,

 

NONE of these wires should be touching eachother. Also check to see if any other wires are touching (obv not the aux as all your zones will link to this to power the detectors). Can you also describe the sound from the sounder please? I it a "nee naw" or a fast siren or a continuous sound?   Can you also check if your outside bell rings?

 

so:

1) Check wires in keypad

2) Check wires in end station

3) What sound is the bell making

4) Is the outside bell ringing??

[Baz]

Thanks for your reply.  I haven't had chance to check the wiring yet, but will do as you suggest. 

 

The keypad is located on the wall above a small cupboard near the front door.  The main electricity box and fuse box are located in this cupboard.  As far as I am aware the wiring from the keypad goes down inside the cupboard, then under the floorboards, then underneath the stairs to the cupboard under the stairs where the control box is located.

 

When the alarm last went off at 2am (both internal and external alarms), the keypad was illuminated, but would just not recogniose any key press.  No matter how many times I entered the deactivation code, nothing would happen.  The alarm was a fast siren sound as far as I can remember.  It certainly was not a 'nee-naw'.

 

I hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

Baz

[Baz]

If it is of any further help, when I first started having problems, I was getting random beeping sounds coming from the keypad, as if a key had been pressed.  Obviously nothing was being pressed, it would just beep merrily away.

 

The first time the alarm went off during the night and I was unable to deactivate it, it just seemed to be the 'Number 3' key that was inoperable, but as this was part of my code at the time, it meant that I could not turn the alarm off.

 

After having the system reactivated several times since, the random beeping sounds have stopped, but when the alarm goes off now the whole keypad is inoperable.

 

Could this point to a faulty wiring problem ?

 

Cheers

 

Baz

[ravis94]

while the system is unset does the number '3' key work once you press it? Check the wiring to the keypad and see if it is intact. I am going to find some information for you. The nights when the alarm starts going off, has the system been set?

 

Can you also try this please:

 

does the keypad cover feel stiff when you ty and push it up as it could be putting pressure on the plastic housing, pressing the 3 key. Ifyour system has been set up to enter 16 wrong keypresses the alarm will sound as a full alarm. Can you open and shut the cover a few times and press down on it a bit to see if it is pressing any buttons...? Your pcb in the back may be loose you see that may be the reason no keypress is being registered.

 

As far as I remember, the veritas keypads have no commands relating to button 3 like PA, SET, or CHIME etc...

[Baz]

When the alarm has gone off, it has always been set (armed)

 

I checked the keypad and cover last night and it did not feel in any way stiff or restricted.  I took it apart and re-routed the main cable around the inside-edge of the box as it appeared to be trapped behind the circuit board, and also re-wired the 4 main wires.  One wire seemed to have a small piece of insulation missing on it which I fixed.

 

Checked the wiring in the main box and this seems OK with bo loose wires or touching wires.

 

Not had chance to check the whole system out yet, but will try in the next few days.

 

Baz

[Secware_Tech6]

ill comment on the r8 if you need me to

 

back to original question

 

1)  I want a wireless remote keypad.  Can the Homelink 55 operate with one, or do I need the I-ON 16. ?

The homelink55 will only work with WIRED keypads, so yes you need an ION for this

 

2)  The fact that the control panel is in an enclosed cupboard, will it have a detrimental effect on the signal being received ?

Yes, but only marginal assuming the cupboard is not foil lined etc

 

3)  I will run 4 wireless PIR