Jump to content
Security Warehouse Support Forum

Baz

Members
  • Posts

    0
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

About Baz

  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Baz's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. When the alarm has gone off, it has always been set (armed) I checked the keypad and cover last night and it did not feel in any way stiff or restricted. I took it apart and re-routed the main cable around the inside-edge of the box as it appeared to be trapped behind the circuit board, and also re-wired the 4 main wires. One wire seemed to have a small piece of insulation missing on it which I fixed. Checked the wiring in the main box and this seems OK with bo loose wires or touching wires. Not had chance to check the whole system out yet, but will try in the next few days. Baz
  2. If it is of any further help, when I first started having problems, I was getting random beeping sounds coming from the keypad, as if a key had been pressed. Obviously nothing was being pressed, it would just beep merrily away. The first time the alarm went off during the night and I was unable to deactivate it, it just seemed to be the 'Number 3' key that was inoperable, but as this was part of my code at the time, it meant that I could not turn the alarm off. After having the system reactivated several times since, the random beeping sounds have stopped, but when the alarm goes off now the whole keypad is inoperable. Could this point to a faulty wiring problem ? Cheers Baz
  3. Thanks for your reply. I haven't had chance to check the wiring yet, but will do as you suggest. The keypad is located on the wall above a small cupboard near the front door. The main electricity box and fuse box are located in this cupboard. As far as I am aware the wiring from the keypad goes down inside the cupboard, then under the floorboards, then underneath the stairs to the cupboard under the stairs where the control box is located. When the alarm last went off at 2am (both internal and external alarms), the keypad was illuminated, but would just not recogniose any key press. No matter how many times I entered the deactivation code, nothing would happen. The alarm was a fast siren sound as far as I can remember. It certainly was not a 'nee-naw'. I hope this helps Cheers Baz
  4. Yes, I see your point. However, I'm not certain what is causing the problems with my current system. Amongst other things, the alarm will go off (always during the night) and I can't deactivate it as the keypad is completely inoperable - it won't register any key press. The only way to stop the alarm ringing is by completely disconnecting it from the mains and battery. Not fun when you are bleary eyed at 2am. Having rung Texecom (I do not consider they were very helpful), they suggested it could be a cabling problem. So rather than replacing the control box and keypad with like for like, and using the existing cables, with which there may be a problem, I thought that I would go wireless. But as I said, I'm totally open to suggestions. Thanks again Baz
  5. Hi, I hope that you can help. I currently have a Texecom Veritas R8 wired system that is misbehaving and I am looking to change to a wireless system. I have recently decorated so do not want to start routing new cables and lifting carpets/floorboards. The house is a 3 bed semi, so I don't need the highest spec system. After reading several reports, I'm considering the Scantronic Homelink 55, although I am open to suggestions. The control panel is currently situated in a cupboard under the stairs and I intend locating this in the same place. However, I have a few questions. 1) I want a wireless remote keypad. Can the Homelink 55 operate with one, or do I need the I-ON 16. ? 2) The fact that the control panel is in an enclosed cupboard, will it have a detrimental effect on the signal being received ? 3) I will run 4 wireless PIR
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.