stevemartin911 Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Hi, Need confirmation that the set-up I have listed will all work together, we are ex.UK but now live in Crete where we have built a house without, regretably it now turns out, a hard wired alarm capability. Crete, once relatively crime free, has now gone bad ways and recently our neighbours were robbed and they had 6 dogs loose in the garden! So I am looking to buy and install a wireless system sourced from the UK and need clarification it will all work and is foolproof for even me to fit ! Basic I-ON16 with two PIR's, two remotes, two master blasters. Owing to our secluded position we need to make life miserable enough for the intruder to leave sooner rather than later, one master blaster for the outside and one for the inside. I have assumed that if we arm / disarm from the outside with the remotes we do not need an entry door contact set, if I am right how do we know from the outside the alarm has ' set ' properly? Any input would be a great help but do not really want to get into a discussion on the pro's and cons of the I-ON16 itself Regards steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secware_Tech6 Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 it seems you have decided on the ion so i wont dwell on that (fine panel mind) I would strongly advise you do use door contacts anyway as wireless pirs shutdown for 3 -5 mins (depending on brand) from the last activity to save battery life. Door contacts dont do this and detect every opening and closing. If you use handheld rf fobs (as opposed to remote keypads) then you can arm from outside. You will need to wire an internal speaker from the panel so that you can here it arming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemartin911 Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Thankyou or your reply, we only have one door, the main front door, we do not really see a burglar using this door for entry, they are more likely to go for one of the many sliding doors and windows that are far less secure. This means that they are most likely to trigger a PIR than the front door contact, on further consideration I am likely to go for 4 PIR's this will be the best way to try and ensure an instant activation by covering larger area's of the house. Further clarification of the 3 - 5 min shut down of the PIR's would be helpfull ? Needing to power the control panel means fitting it to a wall within the house but not near the front door, hence the remote arming. I did not mention the two dummy boxes I am planning to fit, as they did not seem important at the time but could one of these be used to house the audible bleep needed to ensure the alarm was armed, alternatively an active alarm box and only use the sounder for this operation ? The master blaster would be the real noise maker ! Thanks for you help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secware_Tech6 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 the front door contact is not essential but i would recommend. Yes you could house a speaker in the decoy box but this isnt the best way, the best way is to have it in the hallway etc. You need some sort of feedback from the alarm so you can tell its armed etc. the shutdown period is to save the battery life, ie if the rrom has been empty for say 5 mins then on detection it will transmit. As you move around the room on your normal daily routine, if it were to transmit every time it would exhaust the battery very quickly. This shut down stops it transmitting until the unit hasnt detected motions for some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemartin911 Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 Thanks for the clarification on the PIR's, can I go back to the decoy box, they will be on the outside and easily heard I assume the remote will work from a sensible distance whereas I don't really want to have my ear glued to the door to hear an internal speaker on the way out or in? Will a live box work using the standard inards that I won't be using for the alarm itself owing to the master blasters? I assume the master blasters will power from the I-ON16 using the transistorised outputs? Lastly, is an online full manual available for download anywhere? all I can seem to find is the ad.blurb. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secware_Tech6 Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 you wont be able to get anything other than a user manual online for obvious reasons. While putting sounders in decoys may work its certainly not something we can recommend im afraid. Support Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.