stevemartin911

Thanks for your advise, familiar with contactors ok, will the panel have suitable output contacts, as for the sirens, but at a 240v just not capable of handling the 2000watt load without the contactor? Regretably trying to get it installed professionally in Crete would be a long shot so I'm the best its got ! Would not contemplate, as is common knowledge, using a useless DIY alarm, if you need an alarm you need it to work ? Are you suggesting specialist knowledge not contained in the installation intructions will be required, if so will Cooper or someone like yourselves not be able to fill in the gaps?

I am putting together an alarm system for a domestic house using the 75 as the base system but need to add a couple of extra features which don't come in the box ! I am planning on having two master blasters, one inside and one out, these will be the 12v relay versions, will they wire straight into the panel without additional hardware? I also need to turn on about four 240v external floodlights upon activation of the alarm ( say 2000 watts total load ) will any additional hardware be required for these? I am an absolute alarm virgin so if you can keep it as simple as possible I would be very grateful. Thanks for your help

Thanks for the clarification on the PIR's, can I go back to the decoy box, they will be on the outside and easily heard I assume the remote will work from a sensible distance whereas I don't really want to have my ear glued to the door to hear an internal speaker on the way out or in? Will a live box work using the standard inards that I won't be using for the alarm itself owing to the master blasters? I assume the master blasters will power from the I-ON16 using the transistorised outputs? Lastly, is an online full manual available for download anywhere? all I can seem to find is the ad.blurb. Regards

Thankyou or your reply, we only have one door, the main front door, we do not really see a burglar using this door for entry, they are more likely to go for one of the many sliding doors and windows that are far less secure. This means that they are most likely to trigger a PIR than the front door contact, on further consideration I am likely to go for 4 PIR's this will be the best way to try and ensure an instant activation by covering larger area's of the house. Further clarification of the 3 - 5 min shut down of the PIR's would be helpfull ? Needing to power the control panel means fitting it to a wall within the house but not near the front door, hence the remote arming. I did not mention the two dummy boxes I am planning to fit, as they did not seem important at the time but could one of these be used to house the audible bleep needed to ensure the alarm was armed, alternatively an active alarm box and only use the sounder for this operation ? The master blaster would be the real noise maker ! Thanks for you help

Hi, Need confirmation that the set-up I have listed will all work together, we are ex.UK but now live in Crete where we have built a house without, regretably it now turns out, a hard wired alarm capability. Crete, once relatively crime free, has now gone bad ways and recently our neighbours were robbed and they had 6 dogs loose in the garden! So I am looking to buy and install a wireless system sourced from the UK and need clarification it will all work and is foolproof for even me to fit ! Basic I-ON16 with two PIR's, two remotes, two master blasters. Owing to our secluded position we need to make life miserable enough for the intruder to leave sooner rather than later, one master blaster for the outside and one for the inside. I have assumed that if we arm / disarm from the outside with the remotes we do not need an entry door contact set, if I am right how do we know from the outside the alarm has ' set ' properly? Any input would be a great help but do not really want to get into a discussion on the pro's and cons of the I-ON16 itself Regards steve