paradisiaque

Just to say thankyou, that sorted it completely - the alarm works perfectly now! Cheers, Nick

Thanks for that. I had a look at the PDF datasheet on the product page here: http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/brochure/FC508.pdf That doesn't seem cover how to configure the jumpers, is there something else that would have instructions to set up for non-EOL connection? Good idea to check the alignment as well, will do that once the wiring is set up correctly. Cheers, Nick

Ah thankyou that's really helpful. I hadn't realised the contact had an EOL. I've just checked the reading on that circuit at the panel again in case I had the meter on the wrong range or something, and it definitely is 2 Ohms. Is there a way of configuring the contact to work with this panel? or should I replace it with a different kind of contact? Thanks, Nick

Thanks, I have just created a new topic

Hello, I have just finished some work to tidy up the wiring on the Accenta Gen4 system fitted in my flat. Basically what I did was re-route a lot of the surface cabling under the floor, and also change a couple of the sensors. Now the system is up and running again it all seems to work fine, apart from the door contact. The door used to have a surface mounted Honeywell contact, and one of the changes I made was to swap that for a flush contact hidden in the doorframe (part is CQR FC508/WH). When I test the output from contact back at the panel with a multimeter is it fine; reads 2 Ohms with the door closed and then open circuit with the door opened. However when I connect it to the panel it doesn't respond normally. On walk test mode the panel usually shows the door contact open even when the door is closed (and the terminals on the panel read low resistance with a meter). Once or twice on walk test it has responded correctly, but when the system was next power cycled it then went back to the same problem. I have tried bridging the terminals on the panel with a bit of wire and with that done the response is totally normal. Because both the contact and the panel seem to operate normally I do wonder if this might be interference of some kind, but I don't know of any way of checking that. If you have any ideas that I could try to fix this that would be great as it has me a bit stumped! Cheers, Nick

Thankyou, I traced the bell tamper and that has sorted the fault. Having got the tamper sorted, on the same system I am having a problem with the door contact and any ideas you have to help with that as well that would great. The door used to have a surface mounted Honeywell contact, and one of the changes I made was to swap that for a flush contact hidden in the doorframe (part is CQR FC508/WH). When I test the output from contact back at the panel with a multimeter is it fine; reads 2 Ohms with the door closed and then open circuit with the door opened. However when I connect it to the panel it doesn't respond normally. On walk test mode the panel usually shows the door contact open even when the door is closed (and the terminals read low impedance). Once or twice on walk test it has responded correctly, but when the system is next power cycled it then went back to the same problem. I have tried bridging the terminals on the panel with a bit of wire and the response to that is totally normal. Because both the contact and the panel seem to operate normally I do wonder if this might be interference of some kind, but beyond that can't think of anything else to try. Any ideas gratefully received! Cheers, Nick

Thanks for responding so quickly! I checked the keypad tamper circuit which seems OK, measures about 1 Ohm. From the manual I could see those two tamper circuits, but haven't tried the bell tamper. Would you be able explain how to check that? Nick

Hi, It sounds as if I have pretty much exactly the same problem, and it would be great to know how this was resolved for the guy above! I have an Accenta G4 installed at home, and after doing some work to re-run some of the cabling in a neater way it now always gives me a tamper lockout whenever power is applied. These are the things I have tried: I have checked the tamper circuits on all the sensors and the control panel, and none of them measure more than 15 Ohms, and the tamper circuit in total is 51 Ohms. When I close the cover on the panel I can hear a 'click' so I think the microswitch is working. Shorting the tamper connections on the board (the 'tamp' terminals) with a wire link in place of the tamper circuit This has me a bit stumped, so if you have any suggestions for other things I could check they would be much appreciated! Many thanks, Nick